The 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse base model hatchback came with a 2.0-liter four-cylinder engine and a five-speed manual transmission. Your base model Eclipse came with a front wheel drive configuration that uses a constant velocity or CV axle shaft to transfer power from the transmission to the wheel hub. The constant velocity joint at each end of the axle shaft allows the axle to change its orientation as the suspension reacts to road conditions, which over time will cause the joint's of the shaft to wear and need replacing. Replacing the axle shaft is an in-depth procedure, but is well within the ability of home mechanic.
Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the parking brake. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel to be serviced with a lug wrench. Lift the front of the vehicle into the air with a floor jack and place jack stands under the front sub-frame rails. Lower the vehicle until it rests securely on the jack stands. Remove the wheel and tire.
Straiten the legs of the axle shaft nut cotter pin and remove it with pliers. Instruct a helper to sit in the vehicle and apply the brakes. Loosen the axle shaft nut with a 32 mm socket and breaker bar. Remove the axle nut and discard it. Instruct the helper to exit the vehicle.
Straiten the legs of the tie-rod end castle nut cotter pin and remove it with pliers. Remove the tie-rod end castle nut with a socket and ratchet. Install the castle nut at least three full turns. Place the tie-rod separator between the tie-rod joint and the steering knuckle. Tighten the tie-rod separator bolt until the tie-rod separates from the knuckle. Remove the tie-rod separator and castle nut.
Remove the nut securing the stabilizer bar link to the damper fork with a socket and ratchet. Pry the stabilizer bar link stud out of the damper fork with a pry bar. Remove the damper fork upper pinch bolt with a socket and ratchet. Place a wrench on the damper fork lower mounting bolt head and remove the nut with a socket and ratchet. Tap the lower bolt out of the damper for with a hammer. Remove the damper fork from the vehicle.
Straiten the legs of the Lateral lower ball joint cotter pin and remove it with pliers. Remove the lower ball joint castle nut with a socket and ratchet. Install the castle nut onto the lower ball joint three full turns. Install the ball joint separator between the steering knuckle and lower control arm. Tighten the ball joint separator stud until the ball joint separates from the steering knuckle. Remove the ball joint separator. Remove the lower ball joint castle nut. Repeat this step for the compression ball joint to knuckle connection.
Pry down on the lower control arm and pull outwards on the steering knuckle assembly. Firmly grab the outboard joint of the CV shaft and pull it out of the wheel hub. Tap the shaft out of the wheel hub with a small chisel and hammer, if the splines are seized.
Lay down under the vehicle and position yourself so that you can view the axle shaft to transmission connection. Place a pry bar between the inboard CV shaft joint and the transmission case. Pry the shaft out of the transmission enough that the circlip disengages from the differential side gears. Support the inboard joint by hand and slide the axle straight out of the transmission. Remove the axle from under the vehicle.
Inspect the CV shaft seal on the transmission case for any damage from shaft removal or wear and replace as necessary. Clean the threads of the wheel hub with a small wire brush.
Inspect the new CV shaft for the proper length and spline count as compared to the original. Ensure the new CV shaft as a circlip pre-installed on the transmission side of the shaft. Set one side of the circlip into the grove on the transmission end of the axle shaft and slowly work around the circlip pushing it into the groove, if it wasn't pre-installed.
Lay several shop rags over the lower control arm in a manor that will protect the outboard joint and boot from damage. Slide the CV shaft through the inner fender opening from under the vehicle and set the outboard joint and boot on the lower control arm.
Line up the splines of the CV shaft with the splines of the differential side gears and slide the CV shaft into the transmission. Push on the inboard joint with enough force to seat the circlip inside the groove of the differential side gears. Pull outward on the inboard joint tripod by hand, if the circlip and axle are properly installed the shaft will not remove by hand.
Pull outward on the steering knuckle assembly and slide the CV shaft into the wheel hub. Install a new axle nut hand tight. Pry down on the lower control arm and guide the lower ball joint studs into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nuts and tighten to 43 to 52 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Install a new cotter pin to each castle nut and bend the legs in opposite directions around the nut with pliers.
Set the damper fork into position. Install the lower mount bolt and nut hand tight. Install the upper pinch bolt and tighten to 76 foot-pounds. Install the stabilizer bar link stud through the damper fork and tighten the securing nut to 29 foot-pounds.
Set the tie-rod end stud into the steering knuckle and install the castle nut. Tighten the castle nut to 17 to 25 foot-pounds. Install a new cotter pin through the tie-rod end castle nut and bend the legs in opposite directions around the castle nut.
Instruct a helper to sit in the vehicle and apply the brakes. Tighten the CV shaft nut to 145 to 188 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Instruct the helper to exit the vehicle. Install the dust cover over the CV shaft nut and install a new cotter pin. Bend the legs of the cotter pin around the dust cover in opposite directions with pliers. Install the wheel to the vehicle and install the lug nuts hand tight.
Lift the front of the vehicle off the jack stands and remove the jack stands from under the vehicle. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts to 87 to 101 foot-pounds.
Turn the steering wheel so that you will have access to the lower damper fork mounting bolt. Place a wrench on the lower damper fork mounting bolt and tighten the nut to 65 foot-pounds.
Drive the vehicle to a local repair shop to have the front end alignment checked and adjusted as necessary.
