How to Replace a 1998 Honda Civic Throwout Bearing

The '98 Honda Civic's clutch transfers power between the engine and transmission. It interrupts the engine's power long enough for you to shift gears without stripping or crunching. When you release the clutch, the engine returns to full power and can drive the wheels. The clutch's composition includes the pressure plate, flywheel, clutch disk, linkage and clutch release bearing, better known as the throwout bearing. The throw-out bearing pushes the pressure plate's release fingers against the plate's spring force. The pressure plate moves away from the clutch disc which interrupts the power. A bad throwout bearing stops the entire process, so you should replace it as soon as possible.

Things You'll Need

  • Transmission jack
  • Engine hoist
  • Auto stands, ramps or both
  • Clutch alignment tool
  • Ring gear holder
  • Molybdenum
  • Disconnect the battery cables. Remove the battery base tray and the air cleaner assembly. Detach the starter and transaxle ground cables. Remove the engine harness clamp and disconnect the speed sensor connector and back-up light switch. Remove the clutch pipe bracket and release cylinder.

  • Drain the transmission fluid into a proper container (dispose of the fluid at an auto parts store). Detach the starter. Remove the engine and right wheel well splash shields. Separate the lower control arms from the ball joints. Remove the right radius rod.

  • Pry both inner CV joints out of the transaxle with two large screwdrivers. Protect the axle shaft ends from dirt and debris. Remove the header pipe and bracket, shift and extension rods, front stopper bracket, engine stiffener and clutch cover.

  • Use an engine hoist to raise the engine slightly and reduce the load on the engine mounts. Place a transmission jack underneath the transmission and raise the transmission a little. Remove the front and side mounts and the rear mount bracket.

  • Remove the transaxle housing mount bolts and pull the transmission away from the engine. Inspect the clutch assembly for wear, unevenness, cracks, burning, warping and runout. Examine the flywheel gear teeth.

Re-Installation

  • Align the two flywheel dowels with the dowel holes in the clutch cover. Use a clutch alignment tool and ring gear holder to install the disc and pressure plate. Torque the pressure plate and flywheel bolts evenly and in a crisscross pattern.

  • Tighten the transmission mount nuts and bolts in sequence. Align the breather cap on top of the transmission. Clean the throwout bearing sliding surface and apply molybdenum grease. Apply a light amount of grease to the input shaft spines.

  • Place the clutch assembly back in position and push the transmission against the engine. Slide the axles in until the spring clips engage the differential. Use new spring clips on both axles. Raise the transmission and re-install the transmission mounts, brackets and bolts.

  • Lower the transmission and engine. Install the header pipe bracket with new self-locking nuts. Attach the shift and extension rods, front stopper bracket, engine stiffener and clutch cover. Install the inner CV joints and radius rod. Use new self-locking nuts on the front end of the radius rod. Attach the lower control arms to the ball joints, the wheel well splash shields, and the starter.

  • Attach the clutch pipe bracket and the release cylinder. Reconnect the back-up light switch and the speed sensor connector. Attach the engine harness clamp, starter, transaxle ground cables, air cleaner assembly and battery tray. Connect the battery cables. Fill the transmission fluid, check for leaks and adjust the clutch pedal.