Nissan offered two brake configuration options on its 2000 Altima. While all 2000 Altimas were equipped with front disc brakes, buyers could also choose rear disc brakes. The standard brake system on the vehicle is drum-type rear brakes. Disc brakes have brake pads that provide friction and wear down, requiring the replacement of worn pads. If you hear a squealing sound when you depress the brake pedal, it is time to change the brake pads. The procedure differs slightly between the front and rear brakes, and will take about an hour per axle.
Park the Altima on a level surface and turn off the ignition. Open and secure the hood. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap, located on the driver's side, near the firewall. It has a clear body and a round, screw-off cap.
Loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels with the lug wrench. Raise the front of the car with the automotive jack and support both sides with a jack stand. Finish removing the lug nuts and remove both front wheels.
Clean the entire brake assembly with brake cleaner. The dust created by deteriorating pads is dangerous. The brake cleaner will stabilize the dust and minimize its risk. Place a drip pan under the brake assembly to catch the draining brake cleaner.
Use a socket wrench to remove the lower pin bolt from the brake caliper assembly. The bolt head is on the inner side of the caliper.
Rotate the caliper up and off the rotor, and secure it in place with a piece of wire or string.
Remove the metal clips that hold the brake pads in place. The clips are pieces of spring steel that press the pads to the caliper. Remove the pads and the shims.
Inspect the rotor for damage. If the pads are worn completely down to the metal, you will likely see grooves etched in the rotor. If this damage is present, you need to have the rotor repaired by a machine shop or replace the rotor.
Insert the new shims and pads, and replace the pad retainers. If you have forgotten how they are arranged, compare the assembly with the assembly on the opposite side.
Rotate the caliper back down into place. Insert the lower pin bolt and use a torque wrench to tighten it to between 16 feet per pound and 23 feet per pound of torque.
Repeat the procedure on the opposite brake assembly.
Replace both wheels and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle, and tighten the lug nuts. Check the master cylinder to ensure the brake fluid reaches the "Full" mark. If not, add brake fluid as specified by your owner's manual. Close the master cylinder cap.
Open the master cylinder cap.
Loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels with the lug wrench. Raise the rear of the car and support both sides with a jack stand. Finish removing the lug nuts and remove both rear wheels.
Clean the entire brake assembly with brake cleaner. The dust created by deteriorating pads is dangerous and the brake cleaner will stabilize the dust, and minimize its risk. Place a drip pan under the brake assembly to catch the draining brake cleaner.
Remove the brake cable lock spring with a small flat-head screwdriver or a pair of needle nose pliers. This is the wire retainer that holds the parking brake cable in its bracket. Lift the cable up, out of its bracket to remove it.
Remove the lower pin bolt with a socket wrench.
Rotate the caliper up, off the rotor and secure it in place with a piece of wire or string.
Remove the metal clips that hold the brake pads in place. The clips are pieces of spring steel that press the pads to the caliper. Remove the pads and the shims.
Inspect the rotor for damage. If the pads were worn completely down to the metal, you will likely see grooves etched in the rotor. If this damage is present, you need to have the rotor repaired by a machine shop or replace the rotor.
Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to turn the piston clockwise to screw it back into the caliper. Grasp the piston by the notches on its face. When you finish, the four piston notches should align with the caliper body so that two notches are in line with the top and bottom of the caliper, and two notches are in line with the left and right of the caliper. This step provides room to install the new pads, which are thicker than the ones you removed.
Insert the new shims and pads, and replace the pad retainers. If you have forgotten how they are arranged, compare the assembly with the assembly on the opposite side.
Rotate the caliper back down into place. Insert the lower pin bolt, and use a torque wrench to tighten it to between 13 feet per pound and 17 feet per pound of torque. Insert the brake cable back into its bracket, and snap the spring back into place.
Repeat the procedure on the opposite side.
Replace both wheels and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle, and tighten the lug nuts. Check the master cylinder to ensure the brake fluid reaches the "Full" mark. If not, add brake fluid as specified by your owner's manual. Close the master cylinder cap.
