The Ford Taurus uses a rack-and-pinion steering system. The inner tie-rods are the outer extensions of the rack and pinion that connect to the outer tie-rod ends. The outer tie-rod ends are secured to the wheel knuckles. When the steering wheel is turned, the rack pushes one wheel while pulling the other. The tie-rods act as pivot points to provide the necessary motion on demand. Inner tie-rods are not as easily replaced as outer tie-rods ends and special tools to perform the repair will make the job much easier.
If you're noticing an erratic steering response in your Ford Taurus when driving, or if you hear a definitive clunking noise when moving the steering wheel, you may have a problem with the inner tie-rod.
A vibration at certain speed intervals may also indicate a bad tie-rod or tie-rod end, but it's best to check the components for looseness since other problems in the front end or tire balance can also create this symptom.
Check the front end by lifting the front axle of the Taurus and then supporting it on jack stands. Wiggling the front tires, with one hand at 9:00 and the other at 3:00, using rapid, short back-and-forth pivots will reveal movement or emit the knocking noise in the rack.
It is recommended to replace the tie-rods and tie-rod ends in pairs, but it is not required. Once the Taurus is on a lift or jack stands and the wheels are off, you'll need to break the inner jam nut of the outer tie-rod end loose with a 19mm open end wrench. Spraying copious amounts of penetrating oil will help.
Measuring the distance between the ball end of the outer tie-rod end to the jam nut of the inner tie-rod is recommended. This will help prevent excessive toe measured in degrees for the wheel alignment when you're ready to replace the outer tie-rod end to the inner tie-rod.
The retaining nut at the bottom of the outer tie-rod end stud will be removed next, and then a tie-rod end puller will be employed to separate the outer tie-rod end from the knuckle without damaging it. Unscrew the outer tie-rod end to remove it from the inner tie-rod.
The bellows boot covers the connection point of the inner tie-rod to the steering rack to protect it from contaminants. It is affixed on each end of the boot with band straps that will need to be removed and then replaced with radiator-type clamps for re-installation. A press pin or rivet on the inner tie-rod to rack connection then needs to be removed. This can be tricky depending on which side you're replacing.
Size up the inner hex head connection of the inner tie-rod to rack connection using either a 1 5/16 adapter or a 34-mm adapter (depending on the year of the Taurus) on the inner tie-rod removal tool.
Place a socket on the end of the tie-rod end tool and turn it counterclockwise. A great deal of effort is required in order to snap the sheer pin. Holding the rack side in place is also required with an open-end wrench or and adjustable wrench.
Replace the inner tie-rod by reversing the procedure. If a new sheer pin is not supplied with the replacement tie-rod, use Locktite on the threads to prevent the tie-rod from separating from the rack.
Since the measurement of toe is in mere degrees, one thread count of an inner tie-rod or outer tie-rod end can make a world of difference. Toe affects the position of the tire and can prematurely wear out tread if not corrected. Toe adjustments are made by spinning the inner tie-rod until the specific toe measurement is achieved. This can only be done correctly when hooked up to a computerized wheel alignment machine. Any time a front end component is replaced on the Ford Taurus, the wheel alignment should be checked and adjusted.
