There are two basic types of explosive. "Low" explosives, like gunpowder and gasoline, are defined by their relatively slow rate of burn; they're good for applying constant pressure and pushing things. "High" explosives like C4 don't "burn" so much as they do instantly detonate, releasing massive amounts of energy in the form of a shockwave that obliterates the target completely. For many years, the F-body Camaro burned like gunpowder, constantly applying steady pressure to Ford's Mustang. But, in 1998, Ford found a little surprise at the end of the aging F-body's gunpowder trail: a bit of high explosive obliteration known as the LS1 engine.
Crazy horsepower numbers are great, but the pointy nosed F-body doesn't necessarily need them to be fun. Most owners will be satisfied with a few smog-legal bolt-ons and a bit more growl. In 2009, GM High Performance Magazine tested a 1999 LS1 with a K&N Generation II FIPK intake, Edelbrock ceramic-coated headers and 2.75-inch single exhaust with the stock converter. The exhaust added 10 wheel horsepower and 8 foot-pounds of torque, and the intake was good for another 8 horses and 4 foot-pounds. Total 322 horsepower and 336 foot-pounds at the wheels, versus 305 horses and 324 foot-pounds stock.
The stock LS1 heads are limited to about 450 horsepower naturally aspirated, so you'll have to step up to make more. Actually, stepping up in this case means stepping down, since a set of 5.3-liter truck heads are the simple factory upgrade. CNC-ported 5.3-liter heads are the single biggest part in the 500-horse recipe; top them off with a FAST LSX intake and throttle body, the aforementioned Hooker headers and exhaust and 36-pound injectors. Tickle the valves with a Comp Cams XR265HR or equivalent, and you can expect something in the neighborhood of 535 horses and 478 foot-pounds on 91 octane gas. At this point, you're getting close to the rev limit on this engine, so from here on out it's about power adders. First up, a set of LS6 heads and cam, 42 pound-per-hour injectors, a custom computer and a big old Kenne Belle Roots-type supercharger gets you not only 600 horsepower, but a crushing 500 foot-pounds of torque practically off-idle at 2,000 rpm.
Any motor that can make 600-plus horsepower on a stock bottom end is pretty impressive, but that's about the upper limit for the LS1's rotating assembly. At this power level, you'll need a forged crank, rods and pistons like those offered by Lunati. You're also best off going with a 6.0-liter truck block, and you'll need to drop compression to about 8.5-to-1 if you're running forced induction. A set of AFR 205 heads, a stock LS6 cam, LSX intake and throttle body and a high-performance engine tune will set the stage. An HP twin-turbo kit complete with manifolds and 57 mm turbos 13 psi of air to match 75-pound injectors, resulting in 700 horsepower and 713 foot-pounds of torque. Bad news is that making this kind of power will take 100-octane fuel; however, you might be able to run pump gas if you add an intercooler and tune the engine for it. If 700 horsepower isn't enough, this same HP kit with 67 mm turbos has made more than 1,100 horses on a 408 LS stroker.
An LS1 in good condition can take 300 horsepower worth of nitrous without taking the heads off, but you should seriously consider upgrading the head bolts. The LS1's bolts are known to stretch when cylinder pressures get too high, which means a lifted head and blown head gasket. It's not impossible to blow an LS on a 150-shot -- it depends on the engine. Replacing the head bolts with ARP chrome-moly bolts or studs will buy you a lot of peace of mind, and they're cheap enough that you don't have an excuse to risk your motor with stock bolts.
Regardless of the approach you take or the horsepower level you aspire to, don't forget about the chassis. The 1999 F-body's chassis was essentially just an updated 1967 chassis, and we've figured out quite a bit in terms of suspension tuning and chassis stiffening in the last 50 years or so. A tubular front crossmember is preferable, but anything you can do to stiffen the chassis -- strut-tower braces and X-braces primarily -- is going to help. Polyurethane bushings and links should be a priority. These things apply to all cars. From there, it's a matter of assessing your needs and how you'll use the car to determine the best chassis setup.
