The Fine Print - 4-Wheel & Off-Road Magazine

Harry Wagner Contributor Photographers: The ManufacturersFred WilliamsTom Morr

Prior to the ’88 model year if you wanted a lift kit for your GM pickup you just found the leaf springs that provided the lift you wanted and what fit your budget, then bolted them in place. While the steering needed to be addressed, the process was still relatively simple and inexpensive. All of that changed when GM went to independent front suspension. The introduction of crossmembers and upper and lower control arms in place of leaf springs make IFS a more complex suspension for four-wheelers wanting to lift their trucks for additional ground clearance and tire fitment.

the Fine Print chevy Truck Front Suspension Photo 48457944

There’s a wide variety of IFS lift kits on the market, and they vary dramatically in terms of price, features, and construction. Once you have determined the tire size and amount of lift that you want, there are many more things you will want to consider. Read on to help ensure that you get exactly what you want when it comes time to lift your IFS GM.

Top 10 IFS Lift Questions (OK, Maybe a Few Extra)
Before purchasing your lift kit consider asking the vendor these questions to ensure that you are getting exactly what you want.

• Is the lift compatible with ABS, ESP, Stabilitrak, and all other electronic sensors?

• Can the lift be removed and the truck returned to stock?

• Do I have to cut the front differential mounting ear?

• Is any welding required?

• Are any driveline or exhaust modifications required?

• Is the front crossmember one piece or multiple pieces?

• Is the track width altered?

• Does the kit come with new brake lines? Are they an option?

• Does the kit come with shocks? Are upgraded or dual shocks an option?

• Are skidplates included? Are they an option?

• Are steering modifications required? Are they included or an option?

• Does the rear use lift blocks or springs? Are replacement rear springs an option?

• Will the factory wheels work? What size and backspacing is recommending for wheels with this lift kit?

PhotosView Slideshow The first IFS lift kits relocated both the upper and lower control arms to a point lower on the frame to effectively lift the vehicle. These kits don’t widen the track width and tend to be relatively inexpensive, but kits with slotted mounting holes can shift under hard use and cause alignment issues. The best kits use holes instead of slots for the mounting hardware. The standard is to leave the upper control arms in the factory location and relocate the lower control arms, using a taller cast knuckle like these offerings from Superlift. These are more expensive than lowering the upper control arms and often widen the front track width, but the result is an easier installation. When the lower control arms are relocated they are mounted to an aftermarket crossmember. Some of these crossmembers are constructed from one piece of steel, like this one from BDS, while others are multiple pieces. Being made from multiple pieces makes the crossmember easier to produce, ship, and install, but they can also loosen up over time under hard use. Often it is necessary to cut the mounting ear off of the front differential for clearance when it is lowered into the new crossmember. Cognito Motorsports makes a bolt-on mount that can be added if you ever need to return the truck to stock. Some systems lower the torsion bars at the frame end, while others raise the mounting point at the lower control arm, like the Skyjacker system shown here. The first reduces ground clearance under the vehicle, but the second method is generally more expensive. Longer sway bar endlinks are often necessary to span the increased space between the sway bar (mounted on the frame) and the lower knuckle. Reusing the short factory endlinks can cause binding and limit wheel travel, so ensure that longer endlinks are included in your new kit Starting with ’07 models GM switched from torsion bars to coilovers on the front of the 1⁄2-ton trucks (3⁄4- and 1-tons still use torsion bars). Adding lift can be achieved with either a spacer on the factory coilover (right), a replacement strut with the factory spring (left), or a complete replacement coilover depending on your budget and needs. Lift blocks are an inexpensive way to lift the rear of your truck to match the front ride height. Since you retain the stock springs the ride quality stays the same, but the added leverage can result in axlewrap. Make sure that the blocks are tapered for the proper driveshaft angle and include new longer U-bolts. We recommend an add-a-leaf or new spring pack, but If money is tight you can always add replacement leaf springs down the road.