Verne Simons
Senior Editor, Jp
Verne Wants Your Jeep
I really enjoyed your article entitled “Driveway Differentials.” I have a ’50 CJV-35U (Editor: that’s a military version of the CJ-3A to you and me). I doubt I will ever completely restore it to the original military specifications, but I do wheel it. I installed a Lock-Right in the rear Dana 44 and installed a Dana 30 with a Detroit Truetrac in the front. I also added power steering, and Willwood helped me with the disc brakes in the front. Also, I have an overdrive for the Spicer 18 to help with the 5.38 gears. The old girl is powered by the original L-head 134ci flathead four-cylinder. Someday I would like to install an old V-6. This brings me to my question: would your axle conversion make sense for my Willys? I would also like to add a full-floating axle conversion, as I tow this Willys a lot.
Ernest Duskey
Via email
Ooh, the CJV-35U is one of my favorite Jeeps of all time. I want one. I’ve got my eye on one that’s gonna need some serious work. Actually, your axles sound pretty awesome, and it sounds like you have the differentials pretty well covered. If the Dana 30 you swapped in the front of the ex-military flatty has drum brakes, you could follow the advice I gave Nicholas in the June 2014 issue of Jp and swap over to discs. You could also upgrade to chromoly axleshafts in the Dana 30 if you ever plan on running 33-inch tires or larger and a V-6. As far as the rear axle, the only weak link in an early Dana 44 like yours is the two-piece axleshafts. The nut at the end of the axle can get loose and cause a failure when the Woodruff key hogs out its slot. The good news is that if you plan on adding a full-float axle conversion like the one available from ATV Manufacturing (hermtheoverdriveguy.com), you will eliminate this weak link. And as you mentioned, this conversion will allow the use of selectable locking hubs on all four wheels. That’s great for flat towing your Jeep. Just be sure to carry a spare locking hub or two on the trail, as that will probably become the next weak link in the rear axle.
Best Jeep Cherokee Suspension
Hi guys, I love the magazine. I read it cover to cover every month, so keep up the great work! I am building an ’00 Jeep XJ for my wife and kids to ride in. It is going to have a high-pinion Dana 44 front soon and is already running a Chrysler 8.25 in the rear. It is not going to be a hard-core wheeler -- just something capable-ish, safe, and reliable for the family. I also am a member of the Oregon division of Wheeling With Warriors and often have disabled veterans and their families ride with us. So minimal trail issues would be nice, as these events can be 70 or more vehicles in length and I would prefer not to be “that guy” who breaks down and holds everyone up. It will see a fair amount of expeditionary use because we go on week-long ghost town runs sometimes where the “roads/trails” can be less than predictable -- or sometimes non-existent.
It also has to have decent road manners, as it will see a fair amount of pavement going to and from these adventures. I plan on running an aggressive 35-inch all-terrain and trimming the finders to accommodate the larger tires. Here is my question -- I am torn between various 4- to 6 1⁄2-inch long arm verses a Y-link, three-link, or radius-arm setup. I would prefer to have as low a center of gravity as is within reason and some belly armor as well for peace of mind. So, the suspension will need to accommodate sub-frame connectors and skids. I could fabricate these things, but that would not be my first choice, as this rig will need to be safe at speed for everyone, whether in our rig or not. Brand names aside (or not, if one stands tall amongst the others), what setup would you suggest for the intended uses of this vehicle?
Jakob Belles
Via email
Generally speaking, when it comes to a suspension lift, you get what you pay for. We’ve had pretty good luck with Jeep XJ suspensions from Rubicon Express, BDS, Clayton Offroad, and TnT Customs. If I were you, I would try to keep the suspension lift amount below 4 1⁄2 inches or so. You can do this in an Jeep XJ with proper fender trimming and the right bumpstops front and rear and still fit 35s. Generally, any suspension lift over 31⁄2 inches will require either front control arm drop brackets or a front long-arm conversion, or the ride can be harsh and jarring. Other things to consider are that you will almost certainly want a slip-yoke eliminator for the NP231 or NP242 your Jeep XJ has. Add in a new double-cardan rear driveshaft, and your driveline will be happy and vibration free. As far as belly armor, there are several options. ). The crew at 505 Performance can help you out with a cam for your 4.0L no matter what year it is, even if the dealer can’t.
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