QuestionI have a 2000 watt Lanzar! I was looking at the amps "2 x 300" and my buddy only has one set of rca jacks hooked up to one amp. does he need a set from one amp and another set to the other amp? that way they are both on. he just has a ground wire split from the other amp and spliced the radio wire and they are bridged sorta. basiclly one amp as the rca jacks and the other dont so does he need a splitter?
BTW! I got some 8 guage wire for the amp will that be good enough. its a power wire.
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Ok i tested the speakers with the 9volt and they all work we tryed the amps in another car and they work so im just guessing that we have a bad wire somewhere? The ground wire is now fastened to the chassi of the car it has a good ground now. is there any way we can test the wires in the car without taking them out? And what kind of wire should we use on a 2000 watt amp? And also what kind for the speakers? And do you possibilly know how much both run for $$ ?
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Sorry for the confusion I have the two Audiobahn 12's they arnt in a car they are just in a box. My buddy has two Visonik 10's with two Visonik 300 watt amps. He has the two Visoniks 10's wired in his car with amps. Thats the ones I said sounded great. The audiobahns are mine. ok we turned off the car and unplugged the two 10's and put my two 12's in there. When we plugged the 12's up they wouldnt work and the protection light came on. so we unhooked the 12's and plugged the 10's back up. Nothing worked and the light was still on. Later that night we found why the light was on we didnt have it grounded good.
So the next morning we rewired everything and neiter the 10's or the 12's would work the next day.
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Ok me and my buddy just in stalled this new system from Walmart. The system was working perfectly we unhooked the system and put my speakers in Audiobahn 2 12" SE with the amps with my buddys old system and they sounded great. Ohh by the way his system is the Visonik System from walmart. Back to the story my 12's sounded good. but we unpluged them and the amps protection light come on and we took all of the wiring out and redid everything we found the problem it was a ground wire. Well we fixed it and the protection light went off. But we still arnt getting any sound out of the speakers. So we plugged the speakers up to the tweeters just to see if they were blown and they arnt.
The Speakers are Visonik 10's and there are two of them.
The Amps are Visonik 300 watts and there are two of them. The Model Number of the amps are VB101PK REV:13
p.S Everything works now I just think that its the Cd player now! Help us out anyway you can Thanks, and if you need any more info. just tell me!
The car is a 1988 Honda Accord.
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Hey, sorry to hear you're having problems, Some of this, well.... most of this isnt making sense to me and maybe if you re-read what you wrote you'll see where you're loosing me. first think is you say "The system was working perfectly we unhooked the system and put my speakers in Audiobahn 2 12" SE with the amps with my buddys old system and they sounded great."
what is the old system? what is the new system? What are you combining/mixing/matching/ what?????
then you say you unpluged it and the protect light came on? You mean you unpluged it while it was powered???? BAD IDEA!!!
the next thing that doenst make sense is:
"So we plugged the speakers up to the tweeters just to see if they were blown and they arnt."
you cant plug tweeters to speakers, you mean you hooked tweeters???? to your amp????
then you say you have 2 amps, but you dont say how they are wired, like what amp goes to what? they each go to their own sub? or one is in each car? cuz it seemd like you were talking about 2 cars, 2 systems??? you dont say what you are combining with what in what combination etc...
I think at this point I'm more confused than you are.
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ok, well you can test the subs easily, buy just putting a 9 volt battery (a good/new one) across the terminals of the sub. (THE SUB CANT BE CONNECTED TO THE AMP WHEN YOU DO THIS!) just strike the terminals of the 9v across the sub's terminals and the speaker should jump (dont hold it on, this can damage the speaker) So test all your subs this way, they're probably fine.
Just do me a favor and again, I'm sorry for not understanding, but at the end of the 1st email you say everything works now so you think it's the cd player. So if everything now works, what's the problem? I'm guessing you mean the protect light's off so it should be working? But no sound comes out of the subs.
Well. if the subs work with the 9v battery test, they're fine. if your friend just got the amps I'd return them, it's possible that the bad ground was arching which can blow an amp. I've seen this.
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in most of the messages you talked about 2x 300 watt amps, now you're asking about a 2000 watt amp?
i cant recomend wiring without the model number.
generally for speaker wire for door speakers you dont need more than 16 guage but 14 is good. for subs 14 gauge is usually good, you rarely need any more than 12 gauge. Usually fatter is better but at a certain point you're just wasting money. its more important that you get quality wire that is oxygen free and wont corrode and that you do your connections properly.
typically I like to get the power wire according to the fuses in the amps. most amplifiers will have little blade fuses in them. you just add them all up if there's multiple fuses and/or multiple amps. so if you have 4 30 amp fuese, you need to provide a max of 120 amps.
here's a great chart of amps verses cable length and what gauge you should get:
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/ISEO-rgbtcspd/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_c
as for the subs not working, you can try runing a new set of RCA cables in the car. as a test you dont have to make it pretty, you can just lay them over the seats and stuff from the cd player back to the amps.
if that doesnt work there may be a subwoofer setting in the cd player and its turned down all the way, or the rca outputs on the cd player may have fried but that's unlikely.
Answerok.... well
the 2 power wires provide power to the amps, both amps need power.
the "remote" wire triggers the amp to turn on, so they both need that or they wont turn on
and the RCA cables carry the sound from the cd player to the amps so without that, they're not going to make any sound.
I actually was at walmart today and saw a kit of a visonic amp and 10" sub together for $50 If that's the same kit your friend got (he got 2) it looked like the amps had line out jacks on them. in this case you can run RCAs from the cd player to the first amp's line in jacks, then use a short set of RCAs to go from that amp's line out jacks over to the other amp's line in jacks. so they jump from cd player to 1st amp then to 2nd amp. this way you won't have to buy Y adapters.
As for your amp and its wire, I asked you for the model number. you did not provide that, you said it's a 2000 watt lanzar. lanzar is the make, but no model. I'm not going to search all over the net and guess that we're talking about the same model when you have it right in front of you and wont tell me.
if its a typcial amp and again you're forcing me to guess, but at 2000 watts thats probably peak power, so RMS power at best is 1000 watts. it depends on the load you are putting on it as well but the simple formula if you were to max it out, and if it's a class A/B amp (again I'm guessing since you didnt provide the model number) is:
1000 watts / 13.8 volts = about 72 amps divided by .5 efficiency (again guessing since you didnt provide model number) means the max that amplifier should draw is 144 amps and there's no way 8 gauge wire is going to support 144 amps. it will do 60 at best.
Now if the amp is a class D amp then you wouldn't divide by .5 efficiency, you'd divide by .9 or so. which is only 80 amps. but still 8 gauge is light.
Usually the amplifier will have terminals on it that accept the guage wire they recomend for the amplifier. if 4 gauge fits, its a good bet that that's the recomended gauge. but again, depending on the load (ohms of your speakers) you may be only runing the amp at 1/2 its rated power.
