QuestionQUESTION: Hello there, I have a question about my 1979 Cadillac Superior hearse door
lock, I had my keys stolen recently. Then I discovered I have an ignition key
but not a spare to lock and unlock the doors. There is nothing in the manual
or paper work when I got it. The ignition key is a copy. So called the dealer
and there key lock books don't go back that far. I consulted a locksmiths
who has to take the door panel off and get the number. That will cost a arm
and a leg, Took part the door panel and peeked inside didn't see any stamp on
the cylinder, Is there anyone or where I can find the key code, I will give the
VIN number or any other information. Thank you so much for your help. Take
care, Steve
ANSWER: Hello,
No offense, but the locksmith you were using obviously does not use a lock reader. They can go into the lock and read the wafer depths and cut you a key. I believe the tool is called ezeereader.
There is also impressioning in where a key blank is inserted into the lock with bluing and the key is filed to accommodate.
Now, if that locksmith pulled the door panel and had access to the lock, why wasn't it removed and disassembled to determine the wafer (tumbler" depths and make a key accordingly.
I hope you did not pay this locksmith because it sounds like he did not know what he was doing!!
This should not be a difficult ordeal if you have a locksmith that knows what he is doing. I know lockmiths in Ilinois that could make a door key for a car like yours in minutes without even pulling the door panel.
If you have a locking glove box, that lock can be disassembled to get the wafer heights as well and make a key. These cars were easy to make/ door//trunk keys.
Its obvious this locksmith you had at the car is very inexperienced.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hello, Just wanted to thank you very much and let you know I didn't pay any
locksmith at all. I will take your advice according to the locksmith the glove
department has 4 groves things??? I tried at one point to get a key from the
glove box but it didn't work on door. However I was wondering to save me
the hassle and expense can I find the key code some where?When I called the
dealer they don't go back that far. I was wondering if there is a key code list
from the 70's. Thank you again for the help your have been giving me. Steve
AnswerHi Steve,
Actually when I made keys for these sometimes used the glove box wafers s first 4 cuts and would file the last two depths to make a working key. There are only 6 cuts on the key with .025 difference between each of the 5 depths.
If you didn't find the code and( then you need someone with code books from the eighties) to convert the code to key depths) on the door lock body there are no other places to find the codes on a 1979 vehicle. See, it wasn't until 1980 when they went to the 17 digit VIN. After 1980 GM stareted placing option code labels on the vehicle. The option codes with 3 digit alpha-numeric letters amd numbers that would tell you everything about the car. Just to name a few would be engine, outside color, inside color, differential, transmission and in some cases key codes.
These labels were in the trunk on top of the spare ( you don't have a trunk). A mylar label could be attached in the glove box.
You might find a build sheet attached to the seat cusion under the seats. All you need is to look up towards the springs ans see if there is a paper there. The build sheet may have the codes. Normally build sheets are there or under the rear seat cusion, but you don't have a rear seat either.
I realize you may think there has to be some place to find a key code, but pre-1980 such identification was not a priority.
When the car came new it came with 2 door/ trunk keys. It came with two square head ignition keys. All the keys in the center had a very small hole for the key ring. To make the key work better with the key ring, a small block containing the key code was punched out.
The dealer would recomend keeping those little punched blocks in a safe place in the event you ever needed new keys. At the time, that was genarally good enough. On these little blocks was the 4 digit key code. At the time the locksmith would just cross- referrence the code in his code book and he would then find the corresponding cuts for the code.
I don't remember how many years it was in which they repeated the codes. I think it was every 7 years.
You have options though. You could go to a parts store and see if you could get a 3 lock/ key kit. This way you could get the 3 locks with keys. Trim panel on driver's door has alread been taken off. With the window up, all you have to remove is a linkage clip. A "u" cilp is easily remove with a big screwdriver by sliding the clip out. Lock pops out. Lock goes back in door and clip is slid back behind the lock body grooves. Reinstall linkage and put your trim panel on.
Repeat on other two doors.
If you can get only two locks, a compitent locksmith could make you the third lock.
If your power locks work, you may want to modernize it and go to an alarm store and have keyless entry installed. Probably cost you less than $100.00. In fact, that would probably be the option I would go with anyway.
Locks are meant for honest people. The car is very easy to break into. Yes, old cars are stolen all the time (even hearses).
The column can be defeated in less than 30 seconds with a screwdriver with no damage to the ignition lock. I know this because I have rebuilt thousands and thousands of them from theft.
In fact, don't put in an alarm and just have the keyless entry and a starter disable installed. That will keep it safer too! This way all you need to do is press a button and your in and then just start the engine and drive off.
One other thing-if you go with my last option they may install a valet (disable) switch for service. If they do, don't leo
them mount it under the dash. Hide it under your carpet. You would never use this switch accept for service so the engine would start for the guy working on the car if he did not have the remote transmitter.
The reason this switch should not be accessable under the dash is that if a thief were to break the column and get the ignition in the on position on the left side of the column, if the switch is flipped, it disables the starter kill.
Unfortunately, most installers know nothing about theft and thier inferior installations expose this switch.
I hope I assisted you. If so, would you rate my answer? Thanks.
