QuestionQUESTION: how can i disarm a 96 Chrysler LHS alarm just bought used it did not come with remote alarm and alarm is going off and disabling the engine is there a way to disconnect tried to deactivate with the key, and tried to reset by disconnecting battery none worked
ANSWER: Hi Audette,
The alarm theft security system I believe is part of the body control module so it can't be disconnected separately in the '96 model, in my belief. However, because that model year is half way between the '94 and the '98 model years which I have the manual for, I need to ask for your help to describe the fuse box which is hidden behind the left-hand end of the dash and that will tell me for sure. If you open the driver door you will see a removable cap on the end of the dash. Remove that and it will expose a panel with some fuses/plugs and small boxes called relays. There are either 4 multi-wire plugs or there are 11 multi-wire plugs in the panel. Please tell me which it is? Then I can be very specific about what to do to get the alarm disarmed.
Once you have it disarmed the easiest way to avoid it from arming again is to never use the door key lock or the power door lock system to secure the vehicle. Rather, if you only will use the push-button mechanical door locks on the inside of the doors to lock the car you will never set the alarm again. But how to disarm it now? Did you try to lock then unlock the passenger door using the door key? If not, try that now. I presume that you have tried the driver lock and that didn't do it. If neither 'door unlock using door key' will disarm the system then I need to have an answer to my question about the fuse box listed above.
Roland
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QUESTION: Wow thank you, thank, thank you with WD40 AND THE PASSENGER door got alarm to go off.. but now cant get car to start it sounds strong but wont turn over. inside fuse box has 20 fuses and 2 relays
AnswerHi Audette,
I am glad to learn that you found the way to disarm it using the passenger side door. I suspect the wire on the driver side is 'open'. But you know how to avoid setting it, and how to disarm it if it should get set.
On the no start, I suspect that you may have run the battery down to a low enough point that you aren't getting rapid enough cranking or the voltage for the spark is low. Can you get a jump start or borrow a battery charger?
Let me also give you a 'q and a' I got today from another '96 LH ownwer who couldn't get it to idle/start. I mention getting fault codes and checking the egr valve. And then he responded that it was a problem with a dirty throttle body idle side-passageway. So some combination of battery, codes, egr, throttle body will no doubt get you going.
And thanks for the report about the fuse box, which means that you have a '93-96 type of setup. But after further review I see that even on the early version the theft alarm was part of the body computer so there is no way to remove it. But I know how to fake it out and simulate the door lock action if the right door key lock quits on you. The best thing though would be to stop locking the car via the power locks, but you might be able to safely lock it by the left door key which if I am correct has a broken wire, so you won't arm the system. Or don't take chances and use the push-buttons only.
Roland
Questioner: jerry
Category: Chrysler Repair
Private: No
Subject: '96 Concorde: no idle
Question: i took the battery out to use in a car to start it then 3 hours later i put it back in the concorde.now it starts right up but it wont idle,it will die unless i press the gas.i can drive it but i have to put it in neutral at a stop.runs fine at driving speed.i took the - cable off .for 5 min. cleaned the cable ends and check the cables for brakes or pinches in the wire. no other wires or vac hoses near the batt.....HELP
Answer: Hi Jerry,
Did you try for fault codes using the ignition key?:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light to see it begine to flash, pause, flash,etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat to assure an accurate set of flash counts. Let me know the results and we can go from there.
Also, located the egr valve on the passenger-side of the engine. It is in a small pipe the runs from the right exhaust manifolt back to the throttle body area at the rear. Notick that it has a round top, and a flange that separated it from the body of the valve that is bolted into the pipe. Inside the flange area you will see a rod with a slot. Use the tip of a screwdriver inserted in the slot to move the rod back and forth. It should close tightly in one direction by an internal spring-action. It it seems sticky or doesn't close thightly that can prevent idling. Spray some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the body and work it backa nnd forth some more. That may solve your no idle problem.
Roland
PS: Sorry for the delay as your question was just recently forwarded to the 'pool' where I noticed it.
" it turned out that the idle air control valve was dirty(carbonize)and could not send a signal back to the computer,i cleaned the throttle body,held the + cable to the - post to clear and reset the computer and ran 3 to 4 mile trips so the computer could re-learn and no i did not think this one up by myself a mechanic from work showed me over the weekend,i'm only a part time shade tree machanic (half a%#)at best! thanks Jerry "
"Thanks for the response/ranking and the information. The throttle body plate and side passageway as an idle issue are of course often the explanation for a poor idle. It was in the context of a sudden on-set that I focussed on the EGR. But both are certainly possible. Very good of you to let me know."
