QuestionI have a chrylser cirrus 2.5L V6 and it stalled while driving one day. at first we thought it was the fuel pump but that check out, then it turns out the car has no spark. We just replaced the cap and rotor and plugs and wires. It does not have an external ignition coil. The ignition coil is inside the distributor which means that if it's bad, I have to buy a new one and at like $250.00 it's not economical to just be guessing and buy that part. So can you help me figure out how to test my distributor?
Thanks a lot!
AnswerHi Mike,
You didn't mention the year which is important for one aspect: getting a fault code from the engine controller that will tell you what is wrong. 95-6 you can use the ignition key, 97-on usually means a plug in code reader is needed. I have been working with another Cirrus owner for the past couple of days to sort out his situation, which is very much like yours. Here is how it went so far, and from which I believe you will see what to do next:
'95 2.5 V-6: no start
QUESTION: I recently purchased this car. The person that I bought it from said the only thing wrong with it was it needed the cam sensor replaced. I purchased a crankshaft position sensor (they said it didn't have a cam sensor) from autozone and replaced still doing the same thing. It hesitates when starting off and will ideal rough sometimes, when driving at a constant speed it will then just cut out ( the RPM gauge will jump up and back down momentarily ) and sometimes will just cut off and will not start again for a few minutes then will run fine again.
Thanks
Daniel
ANSWER: Hi Daniel,
The cam sensor is a part in the distributor and apparently is not sold separately, afaik. So if that is indeed true you would need a rebuilt or a wrecking yard distributor (though testing its sensor would be a concern unless you can return it). But before doing anything along that line try using the ignition key to get the fault codes:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light, which remains "On", to begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat to be sure you have an accurate flash count set. Then group the counts in pairs in the order of appearance to form the flash fault codes. The last number will always be 55 which is the code for 'end of readout'. If any of the preceding code numbers is a 54 then that would corroborate a problem with the cam sensor (distributor). The crank sensor code is 11 so you shouldn't get that one. Let me know of other codes which might explain the problem before investing in the distributor replacement.
Roland
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QUESTION: I have been unable to get the check engine light to blink any codes
We have also replaced the ECM computer on this car as well Is there anywhere online to get a vacuum diagram for this car?
ANSWER: Hi Daniel,
If a used ecm came from a vehicle of '97 or later it will not flash fault codes. Does the check engine light work, and does it stay on when the key is in the 'on' position with the engine not running after you do 'on-off-on-off-on and leave on in 5 seconds or less elapsed time'? If not but the light does work, then try to do it quicker than 5 seconds, and then put back the old ecm and try with that one. One way or the other you need to know the fault codes that are causing the shut down that you describe which does behave, as I said, like a failing engine position sensor. Also, you could go to an Autozone parts store and get a free fault code readout via a port that is under the dash by the steering column. Under the obd-II codes that approach would give a 0320 for a crank sensor and a 0340 for a cam sensor failure
Try Autozone.com to see if they show the vacuum hose diagram. If not, let me know and I can xerox and postal mail you a copy from the '95 manual which I have.
I would also check the egr valve which might be sticking slightly ajar. Use some WD-40 on the valve stem and move it back and forth to be sure the valve closes via spring-action to a dead stop closed.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: we managed to get the codes 12-54-55 today I also have a series of codes from a mechanic that looked at the car before we purchased it. has codes P0340-P0401-P0154-P0123 Not sure what all this is I need to get this car running ASAP Please Help!!
Thanks
Daniel
Answer: The 54 and 0340 are cam sensor (distributor) no signal. I think you will need a rebuilt distributor to start with in any case.The 0123 says that the throttle position sensor voltage is high which may mean that the wiring harness has melted and allowed the signal wire to short to the 5V supply wire. So look at the harness from the plug at the throttle sensor on back to where you can no longer follow it to see if the insulation looks melted You may be able to carefully separate the wires and wrap them to prevent re-shorting. If they look fine, then I would suspect that the sensor itself may need to be replaced. Not a difficult job, just a couple of screws.
The 0154 says the oxygen sensor on the exhaust manifold close to the radiator is not changing voltage. This could be a problem again with the wires, which are delicate from the sensor to its plug or it could also be the sensor has gone bad. It comes into play when the car is warmed up so it would not be involved in a no start...just poor fuel economy and excess air pollution until you straighten it out.
The 0401 says that the egr valve is not responding to commands to open/shut it. This is probably due to its stem being gummed up, and possibly stuck open ajar which makes starting difficult. The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle. Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside,
Once you get the cam sensor in, the tps and egr resolved it should start and run. Then do the oxygen sensor.
Roland
The 12 and 55 are not relevant to any problem so ignore them.
So Mike, get the fault code(s) and we'll go from there.
For spark to be produced you have to signals from the two engine position sensors, and you need of course a coil and rotor and cap that work. So lets see if you get a code for a bad sensor.
Roland
