Chrysler Repair: 98 3.0L: distributor noise?, crank pulley, crank sensor

Question
QUESTION: Code 11 and 54 is showing up. I just changed the water pump and took out the plug to the distributor. I put it back and got some noise from the engine and the code 54. I un plugged and replugged the distributor. It ran noisey then quite and the code dissapeared. Now the code and noise is back.

ANSWER: The 11 code says the crank sensor (located on the firewall side of the engine at the seam between the trans and the engine just above the trans housing) signal is not getting to the ecm, the 54 says the cam (distributor signal is not getting to the ecm. I don't know what "noise" you might be hearing. I don't see why chnging the water pump would affect either the distributor or the crank noise level of the sensor's signals. I assume you mean the electrical plugs to the distributor were removed but not the body of the distributor as such. Correct?  If the mechanics of the distributor were unchanged why would it start making noise? If you removed the distibutor could you have damaged it, or maybe the distributor shaft/bearing has worn down too much and you need to consider a new distributor.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I read that if the cam position sensor didn't work properly then the engine timing would be off which would account for the noise. I did take the distributor out. Put in a used one and the same thing happened. The noise was still there. The code is still there.

Answer
Hi Jeremy,
The spark timing is done by the crank sensor not the cam sensor. The cam sensor is for timing of the injector pulses. One question, is the distributor fixed, or can it be rotated? Prior to the use of the crank sensor, you had to time the spark with a timing light via a mark on the crank pulley. But with the onset of the crank sensor I believe there is no way for the spark timing to be adjusted by the owner of the vehicle. Because I can't hear the noise I can't tell what is its cause. Timing noise is usually a 'ping' when the engine is under load conditions (accelerating).
I am also somewhat surprised that a '98 vehicle has the 2-digit fault codes as those were phased out starting in '96 and so you should rather be getting 4-digit codes in your odometer window if you use the ignition key, or 4-digit codes with a plug-in reader. Is the engine control module the original one that came with this '98 model? Have you tried to get the 4-digit codes, for free at an Autozone parts store.
Roland