QuestionRE:
What do you mean by "won't stray cranked" and "won't crank"?
-If the blinking light is not on, sometimes you can get it to crank and run, it will stay running if you keep the gas pressed.
Do you mean the engine will not start and idle, or do you mean the starter motor won't turn engine over at all?
-YES! And ??? It's turning over but not running. My husband says it's not firing. That the coil pack has power to it, he checked with the voltmeter. This happens most of the time. Only a few times has it cranked and ran, but you have to mash the gas to keep running.
It sounds to me, if you get "3 or 4 clicks" when you have this problem that the starter motor itself won't respond and that you are hearing either a soft click from the starter motor relay or a loud click from the starter motor solenoid itself (which is on the starter motor) but in either case the starter motor will not 'crank' the engine over. If that is the case, then I would suggest that issue is purely related to a low state of charge on your battery which could be remedied by putting it on a charger overnight if you have a charger or removing the battery and taking it in to be charged at a garage (using another vehicle to carry in the battery) or finally, if the battery is about at the end of its warranty, to replace it.
- I have a battery charger and will try this. But I'm not too sure this is the issue, because this has been going on for almost a week and we have tried to crank the van once daily or more.
On the skipping/hesitating/coughing/hiccuping/slipping worse issue... I would ask you to turn the ignition key on-off-on-off-on and leave on, doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light, which remains 'on', to see it begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat the process to be sure that the counts are accurate. Then let me know the counts, in the order of appearance.
I don't know that I believe the Autozone manager without your doing this yourself, now. If there is indeed no code (other than to sets of flashes, 5 in each, which means no codes)
- Right now we have tried this. But it has been unsuccessful. As long as the dot is blinking the "on" or "auxiliary" switch does not come on. Usually, when the van door is opened the dash lights come on, as it should also when you put the key in the ignition and turn the switch to on. I watched and counted the check engine light with the AutoZone guy. First code was 12 and then 55 both times. In the beginning I remember him writing down 14, but I don't know if he missed counted or what. As for the clicking, if you are looking at the front of the van, it's on the right side back and also on the left side back close to the computer. Sometimes when you turn on the switch, when it will come on, you can hear a buzzing coming from the left hand side of the steering wheel...
then I have another idea. But for that, I need to know which size engine (L?) you have.
-3.3L V6
PS Is there any info in the owners manual about the 'blinking light' that you mentioned?
-No there is nothing about the blinking "dot" light in the manual. I have looked on EVERY page and there is nothing mentioned about it. On one page there is an illustration of the dash lights and you can see it there, but doesn't say what it is. So I called a Chrysler dealership and the mechanic said it was the security... As far as I know the van doesn't have a SECURITY, I have all the original paperwork for this van, and I bought it from original owner. My van does have power everything and just about everything else listed for it.
AnswerHi Bethany,
I agree that the blinking light is an unknown but if there were an anti-theft system on board you would want to be sure that it is not blinking. That you can do by simply turning the key in the driver or passenger door lock to the "unlock position" and then remove the key.
On the hard to start/coughing, etc. My immediate suspicion is that your egr valve is sticking slightly ajar which will cause the engine to be very hard to start and to falter/stop at idle speed after slowing down. The valve is located near the throttle body air intake at the rear end of the engine, mounted in pipe that recirculates exhaust gas from the rear cylider bank exhaust pipe back around to the intake manifold. The exhaust gases have some fumes that can plate out a crud on the valve stem and thus keep it from closing tight when you are at idle. That makes for a too lean mixture so the engine stalls. The valve proper is mounted horizontally with the stem visible in a space between the body of the valve mounted on the pipe and the round top of the valve which is flanged and so if you look carefully you will see a metal rod (stem of the valve) with a slot around its circumference. You can take the tip of flat blade screwdriver and insert it in the slot and then lever the valve back and forth to check if it is moving freely (against spring action in one direction) or not. If it doesn't seem to close easily with the help of the built-in spring, then I would spray the base of the stem with solvent from a pressure can (such as WD-40 or carb cleaner) while moving the stem back and forth. Then see if that solves the starting issue.
Roland
Roland, I have tried the "unlocking" with no success. As far as I know there is no alarm system on this van and we do not have a remote for lock/unlocking. We still have the blinking light... And it will still crank and turn over but no start.
I think we might have a misunderstanding with the "hard to start/coughing". It is two separte issues. I think I should have said that it would stall or hesitate. This issue started before the serpentine belt come off, which busted a hose and the thermostat to not open. Fixed the belt and replaced the thermostat. Ran for a few days still had the hesitation. Then just would not start!!! Have tried numberous attemts to get the codes with the "on, off, on, off, on" with no check engine light at all! That's if we can even get lucky and the lights on the dash come on. Most of the time, when we turn the key to the on or the first position nothing happens! But can turn it to the run position and the dash lights come on with the "BLINKING DOT"!
Answer:
The ignition switch has an aux, lock, off, run and start position. To get the check engine light to work you have to be in the run position, and to get the codes you have switch between the off and run position.
If you have a theft security system (which I find no evidence for in either the '93 or '95 manual) that would not stop the engine from starting and running. What it does is to allow the engine to start but to shut if off after 2-3 seconds of running. So until you have that behavior let us ignore the myseterious blinking light.
Did you do anything about the egr valve? Do you have spark when cranking? Do you have fuel pump sound when turning the key from the off to the run position that last for about 1 second?
Roland
