QuestionQUESTION: I was not aware of these fault codes. I did as instructed and got 1 engine light flash pause, 2 flashes pause, 1 fp, 4 fp, 5 stop (121455). It's my Mom's car and alternator has been replaced twice recently. Also, Mom had hooked jumper cables backwards before this started.
ANSWER: Hi Phillip,
The 12 code says the battery was disconnected sometime in the past 50-100 key cycles, the 14 code says the MAP sensor voltage is out of the normal range, and the 55 says "end of readout" confirming that the codes were read. The 14 code could be stale, from before you changed the MAP, or it could mean one of the wires for the MAP is open/shorted to ground/shorted to another voltage source OR it could mean that the connection to the manifold is not air tight. Try disconnecting the battery again for about a minute or so, which will erase the 14 (but of course re-set the 12 code), then drive it again until it acts up and see if the 14 is still there. If so, then recheck the mounting point to the manifold to be sure it is tight. Then let me know and if necessary check the wiring from the MAP to the engine control module. My suspicion was that you may have a failing crankshaft position sensor, which may be the case because often this sensor begins to get flaky when it warms up only to recover on cooldown, and such a bad sensor is an 11 code. It may be that it hasn't failed badly enough to cause a code (which certainly would happen if the engine won't run at all because it is putting out no signal).
So lets try to sort it out by eliminating the MAP as the cause and then go for the crank sensor.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hi Roland,
I went back through Mom's mechanic paperwork and it says distributor, crankshaft sensor, and throttle position sensor was replaced. I replaced MAP sensor and temperature sensor. I have disconnected the negative battery cable a couple of times for over a minute, but it is still continues to give me the 14 fault code. I made sure the MAP was tight against the manifold. After starting fine and driving 10 - 15 minutes it starts stalling badly. I have visually inspected the connections and wiring to a point and it looks good to me. What do you think I should try next?
AnswerHi Phillip,
Are you also getting a 12 along with the 14? If not then I suspect you are misreading the 14 and that really is 11 (crank sensor) and 12. If you are getting a 14 and a 12 then check the wiring from the map sensor plug: pin A black/light blue to pin 43 of the pcm, pin B violet/white to pin 61, and pin C dark green/red to pin 36. Also when NAP is unplugged, check that the B and C wires are not shorted to ground. If you don't get a 12 along with the 14 then I would replace the crank sensor. I assume that we are dealing with a '96 Sebring Convertible, correct?
Roland
