QuestionQUESTION: I have a 98 Concorde 3.2, the car was running fine, until I was leaving work. turned over but wouldn't start. I checked all fuses and relays, changed crank sensor, tested cam sensor, no codes except the p1684 and now the p0340. I thought it might have been security system problem, but that appears to be working. I checked wiring to the remote starter, which is t-ed into ignition,and disconnected it. Still no difference. My fuel pump is working. I am not getting power to my coils, or the 20amp fuse in dist. box. Could it be my ignition switch, or am I just missing something.
ANSWER: Hi Corey,
In what manner did you test the cam sensor? If you disconnect the battery, retry the start several times and then still get a cam fault code then I would believe it. Have you checked all three wires for continuity? black/light blue to pin 43, tan/yellow to 33 and orange to 44. Then measure for 8v on the orange, and between the other two wires while you turn the engine over by hand via the crank pulley bolt, and you should see a pulsation between 5 and 0.3V.
Roland
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QUESTION: checked and replaced cam sensor, thank you. However, I do believe I may have had a couple of issues, now that 1 is remedied, I now have now power to my fuel pump, the 10a fuse is good and has power, but I am not getting power to my fuel pump relay. Short in wiring somewhere?
ANSWER: Hi Corey,
Yes, the 10 amp fuse #13 in the behind the dash box controls the relay for the fuel pump but the actual power that the relay sends to the fuel pump comes from fuse G (40 amp) under the hood, in back row of fuses, the one closest to the outside (fender).
Roland
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QUESTION: I have power to my 10a fuse, 40a breaker, and relay, fuel pump does work, but I can not get a power signal to the plug under rear seat, the sending unit is working but I can't get power to the fuel pump, I checked ground wire under seat, and tried checking wiring as best as I can get to them, any ideas?
AnswerHi Corey,
If you are certain that the fuel pump relay clicks "on" for about 1 second after you turn the ignition switch to the run position (but don't try to start the car?) and that you are getting 12V to the fuel pump relay socket on pin B (comes from fuse G 40 amp, which is not a 'breaker' according to the manual?), and that 12V is coming out of the relay on dark green/white wire at pin D of the relay (you might want to sneak a small wire into the relay socket's pins while the relay is installed to verify that you really are getting 12V out of the relay, which could have burned points inside of it for example); alzo are you aware that the fuel pump relay will NOT close and send along 12V when you are cranking it over UNLESS there is a valid signal coming out of the pcm which itself requires both the cam and crank sensor to be pulsing, this is a safety feature, the same thing applies to the spark coil; are you getting spark when you are cranking??):
then, the path of that voltage from the relay is next to a three pin plug/disconnect (located under the dash on top of a stack of plugs, the bottom which is the combination turn signal/hazard flasher which you can find audibly by turning on the flashers) and from there the dark green/white wire goes in a harness along the right side of the body under the door openings until it gets to a natural color 10-pin disconnect which is inboard and in front of the right rear wheel well (directly behind the rear seat area) at pin 7 of the 10 pins, and finally gets to the fuel pump plug on pin 4. The ground wire for the pump is on pin 2 of the plug and it goes through a splice and then to a ground point which is not shown in the manual. So just measure that pin to be sure it is shorted to ground.
That is the fuel pump circuit.
Please let me know what you learn.
Roland
