Chrysler Repair: Is it the fuel pump? 90 New Yorker, disconected, engine computer


Question
hi roland! i did the on/off on/off with the key and this is what happened...the check engine light blinked 3 times then 5 times then 5 times again i double checked and it did the same....hope i did it right....thank you!!

Answer
Hi Becky,
You did it correctly, but the 3 was actually 1-pause-2, which means you got code 12 and code 55. The 55 means 'end of readout' so that confirms that the system is producing codes, and the 12 means that sometime in the recent past the electric power to the engine computer was disconnected. Are you aware of any history of the battery being disconnected in the past 50-100 key on-off cycles? If not, then that would be something to consider further. It is connected now however or you wouldn't have gotten codes.
So far, nothing remarkable pertaining directly to the fuel pump. How about the humming sound and how about the fuse in the box under the hood that I described earlier?
Roland
PS Again, use the 'thank/rate' to get back with further results.

sorry i didnt tell you in last letter...i think i hear the hum noise that your taking about and i checked the fuse and i tried another one the same size and it still didnt work...also i cant recall the battery ever being disconected about the codes you got in my earlier letter...i'm confused at what is wrong..thankz again!

Hi Becky,
OK, but try having a helper turn the key to "run" while you listen at the rear to hear whether or not you have that hum from inside the fuel tank. If you do, then I doubt it is wise to replace the pump unless someone has actually measured the fuel pressure at the tap on the fuel rail on the engine proper while you are cranking the car and found it to be below 40 psi. You didn't tell me the history of how you came to suspect the pump. Can you explain?
I would be inclined to test for spark while a helper cranks the engine over. Use a fairly long screwdriver with a plastic handle. Remove a cap from one of the spark plugs, insert the screwdriver so the tip touches the wire deep inside the cap, then hold the handle and the cap with two hands and place the metal shaft of the screwdriver 1/4" from the metal cylinder head or anyother metal part nearby that is part of the body/engine structure. Have the helper crank the engine for 5 seconds while you observe for the presence of a spark which should be seen to jump across the 1/4" gap or not. That, along with fuel and engine rotation is what is the minimum for the engine to start.
What is the history of this entire problem. Did it just refuse to start one day? You do have fuel in the tank, correct?
Roland