QuestionI own a 1995 Chrysler Cirrus, 6 Cilinder, 2.5 Liter, engine. I kindly ask for your help by refering me to a website and/or giving me some answers that will shed some light to try and resolve the 2 car problems I am currently facing and which I list below. Except for these, my car is in good conditions, body, interior, and engine because I took good care of it throughout the years, used it moderately, and was mostly its sole driver. My wife drove it during the first 4 years from purchase time and on other occasions as well. I wish to add that where I live, there is a virtually zero salvage value for this kind of car make, model, and year, unless a car collector is found, who is hard to come by, around here. Thus, I decided to repair and keep using my current car, also because of the high prices and steep depreciations for new cars here. Moreover, used cars history is unavailable and to buy another car’s troubles, I prefer to stay and deal with mine.
Having said all of the above, here are the 2 car problems I am experiencing and which I am still not able to effectively address after about half a year since their first appearance:
1. At idle, car RPM has always been around 700 to 800. Lately, it suddenly jumps up to 1500 and drops to 500, with no touching of the acceleration pedal. Sometimes, it is a single event, others, it keeps fluctuating back and forth. On many occasions, the engine would simply cut off; however, it would restart with no difficulty. A few years ago, the car engine simply stopped and would start for only 2 seconds and cut off. It was repaired by the Chrysler dealer by replacing the computer module with a used one from a slightly different model car.....I don' t know many details....but the car started and thus, the problem resolved, which is what really mattered to me at the time. Since then, this dealer closed shop and was replaced by another corporate group who sells other car makes in addition to Chrysler and I perceived a lack of interest in their car repairs department. Besides, their price quotations are very high for even simple repairs. Currently, I resort to well equipped mechanics with fairly good car shops, importing U.S. parts and specializing in American car models. The first time we plugged the computer, it showed a miscomunication with the vehicle. All the car electric cables were repaired, isolated, and sealed, but we still can't find the exact problem.
2. I have a humidity problem that also produces a foul smell in the car's interior, particularly in the mornings. When touching the rugs, they don't feel wet; but if the mats are placed, they become humid on their plastic grip side. If there for a long enough time period, a slimy stain even forms on that plastic. With the auto mechanics, we removed the rug to check between it and the car's metal floor and found a kind of black sealant rubber which was slightly wet. We are trying to dry it up, although for best results, it has to be completely exposed on a couple of continuously nice sunny days, which are rare this time of year, around here. We can't figure out where all this wetness is coming from and/or its causes. We are monitoring with car hoses, A/C drainage, rain, and carwashes, all possible water/liquid entry points.
Now that you know all the details concerning my car, I would gladly appreciate your help and comments by a reply to this e-mail address asap.
Thank you and Best regards,
David Eskenazi.
AnswerHi David,
Thanks for the interesting history. By the way, where do you live?
On the idle irregularity, I would begin by cleaning the throat of the throttle body, both sides of the throttle 'butterfly" plate, and idle air passageway on one side of the throat. Use solvent and a q-tip to clean those parts. See if that does it. On the communication, exactly what was the behavior when the readout box was connected to diagnostic socket of the car? In any case, try using the ignition key to see if you get a code response by this:
Turn the key "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light, which remains "on", to see if it begins to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat to be sure of an accurate set of counts. Then let me know the counts in order of appearance, and that may give us a fault code to work with.
On the humidity, I would suspect the A.C. drain opening is blocked, of possibly that there is water accumulating at the intake into the heater/ac distribution box due to debris in the intake plenum. Have you check to be sure the drain opening is patent and not blocked? It is located on the engine side of the firewall, near floor level and near the center of the car (in line with the location of the A.C.).
That blockage is the usual source of sour air in the cabin.
I'll await your responses.
Roland
