Chrysler Repair: Sebring 1998 2.5, chrysler sebring convertible, crankshaft sensor

Question
I have a 1998 Chrysler sebring convertible with a 2.5 motor and recently it started acting up where it would start to feel a loss of power and start popping through the tail pipe and then when it warmed up it seemed to straiten up! It slowly started to get worse and done this all the time I took it and had the codes ran and they came back that it was either the timing belt had jumped or stretched or the crankshaft sensor was bad! I decided to replace the timing belt because I just had the crankshaft sensor replaced back in November and it did need replaced but that wasn't the problem it still does it and I took it and had the codes read again and it said this time that it was either the crankshaft sensor or the cam shaft sensor, we tested the camshaft sensor with an ohms meter and as far as we could tell it tested all right! It still is running rough and poping through the exhaust and I don't really want to continue to replace parts to see if there the ones! Any suggestions!

Answer
Hi Chris,
It would be good to clear the fault code memory by disconnecting the - post clamp from the battery for about 5 minutes. Then drive it until you experience the problem again. Then go to an Autozone parts store for a free code readout, or try to use the ignition key to get a code readout. Turn the key "on-off-on-off-on and leave on", doing that in 5 seconds or less. Then watch the check engine light, which remains "on", to begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat to get an accurate count. Group the counts in pairs in the order of appearance to form the two digit fault codes. The last number is always 55 which meand "end of readout". A code 11 would indicate a trouble with the crank sensor signal, a code 54 would be a cam shaft sensor signal.
If the check engine light doesn't flash at all, then watch the odometer window to see if the mileage reading changes to show some four digit numbers after you do the key trick. If you get any such numbers let me know and we'll go from there.
If you get a crank sensor signal then it could be that the new sensor was not installed close enough to the flex plate which is "senses" or that the wiring is not good, rather than the sensor itself is bad. So if that code comes up I would go back to the shop that installed it for resetting/repair. The cam shaft sensor is built into the distributor and unfortunately is not sold separately so that is an expensive item, but if you get a code 54 and there is nothing wrong with the wires to the distributor then you pretty much have to replace the distributor.
Another part to check is the egr valve (exhaust gas recirculation) as it can be ajar instead of closed when you are idling or trying to accelerate. The stem of the valve can be lubricated where it enters the body of the valve. Let me know if no other codes come up and I can tell you how to check that.
Roland