QuestionQUESTION: i read a question & answer dated 11/11/2006 in which your answer was, "Answer
Hi Bill,
Without a code this is a conundrum.
I have the '93/4 troubleshooting manual for the 3.3/3.5 and about the only non-sensor test is a check of the PCM grounds and power supply.
Specifically: remove the plug at the PCM and verify:
cavity 5, 11, and 12 should all be grounded. Then check cavity 9 with the ignition switch on and make sure you get over 10 volts.
Because you get no codes on a self-readout, and if we assume that you might get a "no response" indication if you tried with a diagnostic readout box, there are 18 pages of tests that are comprehensive for that situation. It would cost me about $2 to xerox copy and mail you those pages. So let me know if you want them and I'll get them to you. You can send me back 5-39 cent stamps in return.
Roland" I would like the 18 pages of tests please!!!
ANSWER: Hi Eric,
Before I do that, please tell me whether you have tried to get fault codes using the ignition key: "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less, then count the number of flashes before each pause of the check engine light. Then repeat for accuracy of the counts. Then write back with the results. Also tell me the history of the problem. Also include a postal mailing address so if the pages are needed I can xerox and postal mail them to you. It costs me 10 cents per side plus the postage which you can reimburse me after you get them by sending stamps or a check.
Roland
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QUESTION: mailing address is: 1221 2nd Ave. Fultondale, Al. 35068. Yes I pulled codes (33 A/C & 35 Cooling Fan Relay) somebody just did some work to this vehicle (spark plugs, valve cover gakets & something to do with the rack and pinion steering), they toke the car for a test drive after the repairs & everything checked out good, the owner picked up the car, drove about 1 mile & it shut down, had a wrecker pick it up & when they unloaded it, the car started & run great! they let it run for about 30 mins. then the owner drove it again, made it maybe a 1/4 mile & it shut down again, & hasn't run since. I have done all the basic checks, has fuel pressure, but no spark or injector pulse, the ASD Relay is clicking & I have power on the coil & injectors when cranking but i don't think the computer is making a ground, so I tried a used computer, with no difference. I have gone over the wiring at the engine compartment & the only thing I found was the main ground not hook up to the engine!!!!
ANSWER: Hi Eric,
My suggestion would be to check the output signals of both the cam and crank sensors. Each sensor has an orange wire which should have 8V on it. Then when you turn the crank by hand using a wrench on the crank pulley bolt, measure the voltage pulses on the other two wires of each sensor. The signal should alternate between 0.3 and 5V several times for every revolution (different pattern for the two sensors, so don't be concerned about that). If you have 12V to the injectors and coil due to the ASD being properly closed, then one of the two sensors must not be producing a usable signal, but not so bad as to cause the ASD to fail to close. Let me know what you find. Then we can see whether there are other more complicated tests that require pages from the manual. The driving for a short distance then dying is symptomatic of a failing ignition sensor.
Just in case, have you checked the egr stem for freedom of movement and closing tightly? And which size engine is in the vehicle?
Roland
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QUESTION: 3.5 liter- i am getting the values you asked!(9 volts on ORANGE, -12 Volt on BLACK, 0.3 - 5.0 Volts on the other wire on each sensor) i am getting a tach signal from both of the sensors!
AnswerHi Eric,
Have you checked for spark at all 6 plug caps, and have you checked whether or not the spark plug tips are wet? Did you check pins 5, 11 and 12 of the PCM plug to be sure those are grounded? Also check the light blue/dark blue wire at pin 24 between that point and the crank sensor plug for continuity, and tan/yellow from pin 44 to the cam sensor plug similarly. If all that checks out, then you should get spark and injector pulsing (the injector drivers are 13,14, 15, 16, 38 and 58 and each of those should pulse as well with rotation of the crank. The coil drivers are 17, 18 and 19 and should also pulse. There of course needs to be 12V on the dark green/orange at the spark coil and the injector for those to produce spark and injector delivery, respectively. That is supplied by the ASD relay. So try those tests/measurements to see if you can find why no spark and no injector, if that is indeed the case. Just in case verify that the cam sensor pulses 9 times for 2 revolutions of the crank, while the crank sensor pulses 12 times for each single revolution. Somewhere in that chain the system is broken. I don't see anyother tests in the trouble shoot manual.
Roland
