QuestionHi Vern
My '66 has been restored and the restorer when out of business. He never gave me any info sheet that came with the new parts he stalled. I have NO SCHEMATICS to anything. That's for starters.
Two wks. ago driving me car it just STOPPED. No hesitation, No back firing, just STOPPED and I rolled to the side of the road and waited for AAA. We rolled it into my garage.
Facts: The car has fuel injection, exturnal pump, ECM A9L computer, good working battery.
My buddy who is a auto mechanic came over and started looking for why its not starting.
He tested the coil and it had juice going in but none coming out. So I bought a new coil.
Still NO START. When he turned the key the car's fuel pump kicks in and we get a good turning of the motor but NO START.
He checked the fuses and a 10amp fuse was blown, it blew two more 10amp fuses. He put anyother 20 amp fuse in and it didn't blow. Turn the key and NO START. He checked the distributor, it was turning when I turned the key to start. So the distributor is working.
Fuel is getting to the injectors and we have pressure on the gauge about 30 pounds. But NO START still ? ? ?
Now we think it might be the ECM computer ???
We don't know what the heck is going on. We're in the DARK as to not having any schematics.
My buddy says he's getting some mailed to him ( I don't know where from ) ?
O.K. Vern I wish I could give you more info on this mystery ?
THANK YOU VERN
GOD BLESS YOU
Ray M.
AnswerHello Ray,
I think your mechanic friend is on the right track. You're going to need schematics and manuals for all the new components on your engine, including EFI and ECM. As he's doing, you will need to check all aspects of the starting circuit including diagnosing what's causing the fuses to blow. But without the manual, you won't know if a 10 A or 20 A fuse was proper for that circuit. If it were mine, and I didn't want to start from scratch, the cause of the blown fuses is where I'd start first.
If this shortcut doesn't work, I'm afraid you'll need to start from the beginning with an ohm/voltmeter and verify that each component in the starting circuit is working properly. Additionally or hopefully, your mechanic friend also understands how these systems are supposed to work together as this interaction is a common fail point when components from different manufacturers are asked to work together
I see situations like this commonly where car builders throw together engines and combining "parts" with no thought of their interoperability. Often times, the only way to fix this without knowing what was originally done is to take the car to a high end tuning shop and have them do the preceding process. Many times they'll find a bunch of smaller problems that combine into one big one. You just have to keep peeling back the onion, layer by layer, until you get to the cause.
In closing, I hope that this is not the case for you but wouldn't be surprised if it came to that given your background description.
Good luck
Bob
