Classic/Antique Car Repair: ignition will not shut off engine, ignition switch connections

Question
Hi, I removed an ignition switch from a 1951 Studebaker, 6 volt original car.  This was to simply have a key cut as the owner lost it.  The ignition switch has three threaded poles on it, ASSY, COIL and a center brass which is very long.  I noted that there was also a Bakelite cover that goes over the back of the switch.  I recalled on reinstallation that two wires went on the center pole then the Bakelite slid over and another wire went on behind. I think I hooked up the ASSY and COIL wires correctly, however the car does not shut off when running, you have to stop it via dumping the clutch.  I did not have time to trouble shoot this problem but am planning to try this week.  What do you think?  Thank you

Answer
Until you get this sorted out, don't leave the battery connected - it will fry the points pretty quickly the way it is hooked up now.

Studebaker may have used different letters on their switches - don't pay any attention to what the labels are, just use a continuity checker or a multi-meter to determine which terminal is connected to the -6 volts in each position.   

The wire to the coil has to be on the "I" or ignition terminal, which is the only terminal that IS connected to the battery when the switch is in the "RUN" position, but is NOT connected in any other position.  You may need to use a multi-meter to determine which of the terminals has this characteristic.

There should be only one wire on the "I" terminal, the wire that goes to the coil.

The other terminals on the switch are the battery terminal, usually labeled "B", and the accessory terminal, usually labeled "ACC".

The "B" terminal gets the heavy wire - usually red, which comes from the Ammeter - it is the wire that always has -6 volts on it (The minus sign means that this is a positive ground car).

The longest terminal is most likely the "ACC" terminal, since that is were all the electrical accessories have to be connected (that is why the terminal is longer).
All the other wires go to the "ACC" terminal - this makes it so the radio, heater, electric fuel pump and other accessories go on and off with the key, but can also be used when the engine is off.

When you get this hooked up right, double check yourself by testing as follows:
When the switch is one click to the left, you should see -6 volts only on the battery terminal and the accessory terminal.  

When the switch is one click to the right, you should see -6 volts on all 3 terminals.  

When the switch is in the off position (key out), you should see -6 volts only on one terminal, the battery terminal (heavy wire which comes from the ammeter).

I hope this is helpful.

Dick