QuestionQUESTION: 95 galant will not crank let alone start. the following are new alternator, ignition switch, starter, neutral/safety ( inhibitor ) switch, wiring from battery to the starter. It is a 4 cylinder w/at es model. This is my wife's car and personally I wish it was domestic as it would be already running. The odd thing is that if you have the key in the run, not start, position and shift the lever from park to R, D, 2, or L there is a loud fast clicking noise coming from the transmission area. PLEASE HELP as I am about to blow up this car.
Thanks
ANSWER: Michael: Oh gee, I have had cars I wanted to pull all my hair out, over. But never thought about blowing them up. lol. Ok, listen I think this is a computer problem. As the loud clicking noise you hear I think is the computer clicking at you. Your car is the right year for the bad computers, as Mitsubishi farmed the building of their computers to another company, which did not build very good ones. A piece will start to leak in the computer and it will kill off the computer with time. Oh one more thing have you tried to take the distributor loose and move it either to the left or to the right to see if the car will start then? In the distributor is a crank angle sensor. Sometimes that will work. Also old how is the fuel pump? Can you hear the fuel pump start up when you turn the key? It should start and run for a bit. Been replacing a lot of fuel pumps because people are running their cars down to empty on their tanks. But the fuel is what cools the pump, so do this enough. You will burn out the pump. Should just run your fuel tank down to 1/4 before you fill it up again. Well there is some ideas for you, I hope one of them shows you the problem. Later: ~Linda~
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QUESTION: OK I do not want to blow up the car anymore. I think that I found the problem but it has led me to 2 others. First, I started to trace the wiring with a circuit tester for the ignition system and as I started I decided to use a screwdriver in the ignition switch instead of the shaft from the key lock and it started up fine. The problems now are that the ABS, Brake Light and Battery lights are on as the car is running. The other problem is that I now think that the keyed part that the shaft attaches to is bad as it does not move as far as the ignition switch needs to go. As for the shifting it is fine and the tranny does not click anymore. Also, The new alternator is a 90 amp model not the 75 amp version that was in the car. Could this make a difference at all. BTW the car is an LS not an ES. Thanks Again
Mike
AnswerMike; I bet your wife is happy you no longer wants to blow up her car... lol. Well anyway, the problems with the ABS,try taken the neg cable off the battery for a 5 minutes and put it back on it might reset the computer on the ABS so that light might go off. Brake light I would check the brake fluid it might be low. Well my manual says you can put in an alternator at 60, 75, or 90 amp output rating. So there again you might be able to reset up the computer by taking off the neg battery cable and so get the computer to take on the new alternator. Battery light means there is a problem in the charging system. If you turn on the lights are they strong or do they get weak and then bright again? If the lights are weak, strong then weak again well there would be a short in the wiring someplace. You can put in a new ignition lock cylinder, which might fix your problem with the key. Only you might have to get a shop to this for you, due to that air bag. Hope this helps.... ~Linda~
