Nissan Repair: Still Having Brake Issue, power bleeder, ford gt40


Question

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The text above is a follow-up to ...

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Von, here is the response you posted to my brake issue:


Answer
Tracy,

Couple of things here.  First, have the brake system bled with Ford High Performance Brake Fluid.  This brake fluid is awesome as it has twice the boiling point of normal DOT 3 brake fluid.  Second, the parking brake sounds like it is sticking.  Have the rear pads changed if they have not already been changed recently.  Then have the parking brake cable loosened a couple of turns to keep the rear brakes from sticking.  A common problem on 2000-2003 Maxima cars.  If the brake pedal was soft and went down more than normal that would mean the master cylinder is in need of replacement.  You did say after you pumped the brakes they worked again.  When the master cylinder is replaced they have to bleed the system so use the Ford Stuff.  Do not let them power bleed the system as most shops never clean their power bleeder.  Plus excessive pressure on system components that are this old can fail as a result of using a power bleeder.  If the front pads are recently new do not bother with a replacement.  I always use Nissan pads on my cars as they work better than most aftermarket pads.  But, if you like Autozone sells Performance Friction Carbon Metallic and they are great.  About $45 bucks for pads for the front and another $45 for the rear and I do not know what your master cylinder is going for these days.  Something like $100 to $150 if memory serves me right.  Three cans of Ford High Performance Brake Fluid for $5 bucks a can/bottle.  You have to go to a Ford Dealership and specifically ask for it since their parts guys have no idea...  Black label with a Ford GT40 race car lable.  If you get the blue bottle it is the regular stuff so do not bother.

So, I took it in and explained to them what it was doing as well as your response. Instead, they took it upon themselves to replace all brakes and rotors claiming if they were clearly worn it would cause a hard brake pedal - $700. Two days later, it happened again. I took it back and they did credit me the entire cost of what they had done since they wrote it up as a soft brake pedal going to the floor. They then found a broken rear caliber which they replaced - another $219. Few days later, happened again. Took it elsewhere and they tested the booster, passed with flying colors. They also checked the cable and parking brake claiming if the parking brake was sticking, it would happen more often than once or twice a day. Last resort, called Nissan Corp. They are now telling me if a remanufactured caliber was put in, the computer may not be reading it. However, the mechanic is saying the caliber is not even hooked up to the computer. He doesn't know what else to do and is finding nothing wrong. Any other ideas?
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Tracy,

If the pedal is going to the floor it is the master cylinder and if the shop does not know this they should have the car long enough to have it happen to them.  I am thinking that if the pedal went to the floor the brake light would come on?  But, if the seals fail at the same rate the pressure would bleed down at the same rate and the light would not activate.  Have them drive it until it does it to the mechanic.  It is worth a tank of gas having them keep the van until they experience it.  I cannot imaging them thinking replacing all those parts would have anything to do with the brake pedal going to the floor.  If the caliper was bad and causing your problem there would be a puddle of brake fluid at that wheel.  No leak and an internal bleed down like your pedal going to the floor only means that the master cylinder is defective.

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2/25
Sorry Von, I should have included my original question. The brake is not going to the floor, it's not going anywhere! It locks on me and won't even push down. I have to almost stand up on it to stop my car. Again, it only happens once a day.

Answer
Tracy,

Thanks for the information.  It is the anti-lock brake unit.  Take the fuse out for the anti-lock brake and see if the problem goes away.  The ABS light will come on but the problem should go away.  It is probably computer related since it only does it once when you start it up.  Your Nissan dealer might have a computer fix that they can simply load to the computer via their Consult II computer.