QuestionSears Best Blower/Vac Mulcher - in other words, a leaf blower.
32CC 170MPH 360CFM
SN: 95268N03717
I had this unit in storage, dry. After several years, I took it out, used fresh gas and oil mixed, added sta-bil and after a few pulls in went right off.
About a week later, went to start it and now it starts and runs for a few seconds and then dies. I can normally use a start sequence of full choke and pull and it runs momentarily, move the choke to half and pull, I let it idle for about a minute and the put the choke at off, and all is well. I have repeated this same procedure with no success. I just now removed the air filter and got it to start and it will run at various rpms, which it varies on it's own, or I can play with the gas feed trigger and get it to maintain a pretty good rpm, but something is not right. Without the air filter it has started so it must be starving for air. I will clean that and put it back in. Have checked the spark plug and it looks decent.
Any advice before I have to take it in to a shop? I would love to save on the expense if I could.
Please advise,
Barry Hedden
AnswerHello Barry:
>>From your Description it Sounds like the Exhaust Port (Muffler Included) is Restricted or the Carburetor Requires Soaking and Cleaning (New Gasket and Diaphram Set).
>>To View a Breakdown/IPL of this Unit Go to this Site Addy, http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?sid=PSHx20080114x00001 and Enter the Model Numbers and Click Search. From this Page you can View Diagrams and Parts Lists.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File for Doing a Diagnostic on the Engine for this Problem. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**Remove the Muffler and Make Sure the Exhaust Port of the Engine is Clear.
>>If it is, then Try to Start the engine with the Muffler Off.
>>If it Starts and Runs Properly, then Clean the Spark Arrestor Screen in the Muffler or Replace the Muffler if Required. Some Mufflers will Split apart for Cleaning of the Screen and Some are Screwed/Bolted to the Outside and on Others the Muffler has to be Replaced.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. A Illustrated Parts Breakdown will Assist you in the Disassembly and Assembly of the Carburetor. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace are the Needle Valve and Metering Pump Diaphram.
>>The Metering Pump Diaphram is Under the Carburetor Plate with 4 Small Screws in it.
>>The Dowl on the Diaphram should Just Touch the Metering Jet Actuator Arm.
>>The Actuator Arm is Adjusted by Carefully Bending the Actuator Arm Up or Down to get the Correct Clearance.
>>If you Order a Kit, then Replace All the Old Components with the New Ones in the Kit even if the Old Parts Look Good.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers.
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine.
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
>>If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I Hope to be Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.
Good Luck
Respectfully
John
PS: I am Allowed to Answer 3 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. All Follow up Questions are Accepted at Any Time. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.
Respectfully
John
