Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): FURTHER QUERIES - Briggs & Stratt 16HP OHV Blowing Smoke, copper head gasket, briggs and stratton


Question
John,

Thankyou so much for your advice earlier.  I have visited the websites you have listed and have another couple of questions before i take the head off the engine.

1 - I saw the tensioning requirements for the head bolts for this engine is 220 lbs, is there a sequence that i shoudl tension the bolts? I realise i should not tension one bolt to this and then so on, should i do it in stages?

2 - Apparently you can get a copper head gasket for these engines, do you know if they are available and where i could obtain one from?

3 - Will i need to recheck the valve clearances once i have it all back togethor?  If so where do i find this information?

Thanks again for your advice, i was going to leave feedback/comments however i could not find where to do this.

Thanks

Nick

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ORIGINAL QUESTION:
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Hello,

I have a 16HP Vanguard Briggs and Stratton Engine on my Cox Lawnmower here in Australia.  The Model: is 28Q777, Type: 0639-A1, Code: 960920ZO.

I have a problem where the oil in being dumped in the air filter.  I have cleaned the sump breather and it seems to be working the way it should.

I have also checked the oil level as I have been told overfilling the oil will cause oil to be dumped out this breather pipe – oil level is ok.

Anyway I am wondering if the head gasket could be blown between two ports, not being an expert on these engines and only going off advice from my local dealer.

If the head gasket could be blown, I can get a new gasket from my local dealer for $35 AUS, but how do I know what to tension the head bolts back up to?

I have taken the valve cover off, but haven’t run the engine with this off.

I am using a penrite SAE30 4 stroke small engine oil and have serviced the engine several times since I have had in around 18 months.

Any help would be appreciated.3

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ORIGINAL ANSWER:
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Hello Nick:

You can View a Breakdown/IPL of this Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/parts.asp and Select the Shop Online Parts Look Up. Then Select the Model Tab. Then Select the OEM and Enter the Model (5 or 6 Digits) and Type Numbers (first 4 digits Only). Example: 28Q777-0639. Then Double Click on the Model in the Results Area. Select Sectional Index. Now you can Select the Section of the Engine you Wish to View. From your Description it Sounds like the Head Gasket is Blown as you Described. This is Becoming a Common Problem with these Engines. The Torque Specifications can be Located at this Site Addy; http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/ . If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Have a Happy Holiday Season and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.

Respectfully

John
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Answer
Hello Again Nick:

1- Hold Up on the Torque. My Manual Says 220 "Inch" Pounds of Torque, Not "Foot" Pounds of Torque. The Sequence is Like the Sequence on an Automotive Head. Tighten the Upper Center Bolt, then the Lower Center Bolt and Keep working Outward. The Torque Sequence is 125 Inch Pounds, 175, Inch Pounds and Finish with 220 Inch Pounds. The Highest Foot Pound Torque Used Anymore is 35 Foot Pounds and this is Not Called for on this Engine. The Older Cast Engines have a Foot Pound Torque Specification. 2- It has been a While Since I have Seen Any Of the Copper Head gaskets for this Engine. You can Try Outdoor Distributors @ http://www.outdoordistributors.com/ (1-877-707-2787). 3- Yes the Valve Clearance will requier Setting. The Following is a Basic File I made for Setting the Valve Clearances. Any Input is Appreciated. **I Do Not Use the Setting Called for by the OEMs. I have Found that the Following Works Best. Remove the Valve Cover (on the Dead Cylinder for Twin Cylinder Engines). Set the Cylinder you are Setting the Valves on to Top Dead Center on the Compression Stroke When Setting the Valve Clearance. Now Loosen the Valve Adjuster Lock and  Using a Blade Style Feeler Gauge, Set the Intake Valve Clearance to .004in - .006in and the Exhaust to .006in - .008in. Loosen and Tighten the Rocker Arm and the Feeler Gauge is Placed Between the Rocker Arm and the Valve Top where the Rocker Arm Pushes on the Valve. ***BE SURE TO TIGHTEN THE ADJUSTER LOCK AFTER YOU HAVE THE PROPER VALVE CLEARANCE*** I have had Better Performance Out of the Mowers and Less Burnt Valves Using these Settings. Be Sure the Piston is at TDC on the Compression Stroke.** If you Remove the Valve Cover and then Turn the Engine by Hand, you can Watch the Intake Valve Movement. When the Intake Valve Closes, the Piston will Just Starting the Compression/Power Stroke. On Some Engines you can Us a Straightened Coat Hanger and Feel the Piston. Be Careful and Dont Jam the Wire in the Cylinder. Usually the Piston will Push the Wire Out of the Spark Plug Hole with No Problems. As for where you Make the Ratings and Comments, I have No Idea. LOL. I Appreciate the Interest, but I have Never Asked Any Questions here, so I am Not Familiar with the Comments and Ratings System. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. Have a Happy Holiday Season and May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Comments and Ratings are Greatly Appreciated. Thanks.

Respectfully

John