Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): Snowblower always flooding, internal passages, spray lubricant

Question
Hi,

I have a Toro CCR 3000 model #38431.  Problem is my carb floods every time I add fuel.  I've taken the carb apart and cleaned it diligently - replaced the seat and needle just for good measure --> It's still flooding, so much so that the fuel flows out of the carb and runs down and FLOWS off the bowl (on the outside of the bowl).  Thought maybe the float had a hole in it (and was leaking) and not closing the pin/seat gap but when I do a water test to see if the float is working, there's no problem - the gap closes and no flooding occurs.

I'm at a loss now - any suggestions please?

TIA,
Stephen

Answer
Hello Stephen:

Did you Install the Flat O-Ring Seat Correctly? The Seat has 2 Sides to it and Most People Miss Seeing this. 1- In the Following Instruction File is a Description of the Needle Valve Seat (Flat O-Ring). Make Sure the Seat is Correctly Installed. The Following is a General Instruction File for Carburetor Cleaning. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time. I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port. If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then  **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve and Needle Valve Seat if Applicable. This is a Flat O-Ring Located in the Inlet Port the Float Needle Rests in. Use a Strong Wire with a Slight Bend to Remove the Old Seat. Sometimes a Small Pocket Screw Driver can be Use Also. The New Seat will have a Slightly Beveled Side and a Flat Side. The Flat Side goes Towards the Carburetor Body when Inserted into the Inlet Port. Spray the Seat with Spray Lubricant to make Installation Easier. The End of a Drill Bit that is Slightly Small than the Seat can be Use as an Insertion Tool. Wear Gloves or Use a Rag when Handling the Sharpened End of the Drill Bit. Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.*** (Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***. ****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body. If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is the Farthest from the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body. Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:  ****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.**** If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment. Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor and May Not Reflect Yours. If you have Questions, Please Ask. 2- Clean Any Burrs from the Carburetor Housing that will be Located in the Center of the Float when it is Installed. Sometimes these Burrs Catch the Float and Make it Hang/Stick. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem,  I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

PS: I am Allowed to Answer 10 Questions a Day. If you See I am Maxxed Out, then Try Submitting your Question at or Just After 8pm EST (US). My New Day Starts then. Thanks.

Respectfully

John