Small Engines (Lawn Mowers, etc.): tractor wont start., sears craftsman, starter solenoid

Question
Hello,

I have a sears craftsman 17.0 hp electric start lawn tractor.  Model # 917-270711. I do not like it, nothing but problems.  I just keep thinking of that commercial "Honey, I bought another tractor" but only wish I had the money to buy a new one.  I try to start it and it clicks, or makes a grinding noise, if I try enough times I may get lucky and it will turn over 3 or 4 times.  If I am even more lucky it will start in those few cranks.  Usually I get the push mower out and go at it.  How stupid do I feel with a lawn tractor sitting in the garage, mocking me.  I have replaced the battery, and it started fine the first time, then it was back to the same a week later. I am afraid of pouring money into this tractor by trying different parts and never solve the problem.  the starter for example is over 60 dollars.

Can you help?  Thanks.  

Answer
Hello Mark:

With Some Time and a Small Amount of Money you can Make this Rider Dependable. 1st- Go to this Site Addy, http://www3.sears.com/ and Enter the Model Numbers in the Search Box at the Upper Left and Click Go. Then Visually Verify the Equipment and Click Continue. Now you can Select Either View Diagram or View Parts List. I will Use this Site and Breakdown for Reference. 2nd- With a Fully Charged Battery; Connect the Positive Lead of a Jumper Cable to the Positive Post of the Battery and with the Other End FIRMLY Touch the Large Post on the Starter(the same post the Battery Wire from the Solenoid to Starter is Attached). If the Engine Turns Properly, then you Need to Check the Solenoid. Firmly Touch the Small Post at the Base of the Starter Solenoid that has the Ignition Wire Attached to it. If the Starter Turns, then you need to Check the Safety Switches. If the Engine Turns Slow and Seems to Bind During these Processes, then Remove the Valve Cover and Reset the Valves. On the OHV Engines there Seems to be a Problem with the Valve Setting Moving or the Valves are Stretching. I Haven't Looked Into the Cause, But the Valves Must be Re-Adjusted when this Occurs. You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Engine at this Site Addy, http://www.outdoordistributors.com/ and Select the B. Then Select Briggs and Stratton. Then Select Don't have Part Numbers. Then Select the File #31.  Then Select the Folder #311700. According to the Mower Model; this is the Engine Model Series Number. The Intake Valve is Set to .004in - .006in and the Exhaust .008in - .010in. A Blade Type Feeler Gauge is Require to Do this Procedure. Set the Piston to TDC and Loosen the Adjuster Locks and then Adjust the Valves. Add Thread Lock to the Threads of the Adjuster Lock and Tighten the Adjuster Lock in Place. I have Started Putting High Temperature (Red) Thread Lock on the Valve Adjustment Locks, in an Attempt to Stop this Problem. It Seems to Work. I have Only had 5 or 6 Returns for Valve Adjustment since I Started this Procedure in the Shop. To Check the Safety Switches, you Start with the Clutch/Brake Safety, the Blade Safety and the Seat Safety. On Some Mowers you Simply Disconnect the Safety Switch and On Others you Need a Jumper Wire to Put in the Harness Connection. You May have Burnt the Starter Up But I'm Not Sure. If the Starter is Bad, then the Valves Being Out of Adjustment was the Cause. The Engine has a Compression Release on the Cam and this Must Function Properly or you have the Problems you Described. I Have the Same Model for Home Use and am Now Having Now Problems. Hope this Helps. I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Let Me Know What Happens, Please. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully  

John

PS: A Mower being Jump Started or with a Just Charged Battery will Usually Pull the Engine throught the Compression, But a Battery that has Set for 24 Hours will Not have the Reserve to Properly Turn the Engine with the Valve Out of Adjustment.