Steering Column Repair: F-250 steering column, turn signal switch, honest personality

Question
QUESTION: Sir:
I have had this 89 F-250 diesel for 15 years and have been very happy with it. Rebuilt engine, rebuilt tranny; runs great. But over the last three years I have had ignition switch problems. Had one replaced, it died. Had the steering column replaced, it died. Had it replaced again, three months later, it just died. The mechanic, whom I trust explicitly, who has a stellar, honest personality said something like this... 'actuator rod, somethin somethin, mumbly..... I lost him pretty quick. there is something killing these rods and I hope to find some pictures, exploded views of every ding dang part in those columns to isolate what is really happening. It may not be in the column at all if my truck is consistently rejecting them. It may be in the engine compartment. I appreciate any help you can give. Ralph


rack gear actuator   ANSWER: Hi Ralph:

Although I do not have a blowup diagram or any good pictures yet of the column design you are talking about, I am very familiar with the failings of that style.
What happens is the mechanism that actually pushes the rod to start the truck gets pretty gummed up and begins to rotate hard after a while.  We see this more in the colder temps than in the southern states, but it happens all over.  Once it starts to bind, it gets harder and harder to turn as far as you need to to engage the starter.  Ultimately you break the cast rack actuator that does the pushing itself.  I have enclosed a picture of that part.
The best advice I can offer you if it hasn't broken yet, is to lubricate the mechanism as best you can by removing the lock cylinder and spraying WD40 inside the hole and all over the gear inside.
If you want to go even further, take the steering wheel off, and spray inside the hole that has the locking pin that locks the steering wheel.  That is the part of the actuator that is behind the gear.  The more penetrating oil you can get on it, the better.  The only electrical stuff inside is the turn signal switch you can see, so if you avoid that, you don't have to worry about getting lubricant on anything but the floor.
I think once you do that and exercise it while spraying, you will find it loosen up substantially.  Do that from time to time and you can buy many months of easy use

I hope this helps you

Good luck
Doug

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Excellent. How do I get the lock cylinder off? Yes, I'm a dummy. Ralph

ANSWER: Hi Ralph:

No problem. Look under ths lock cylinder on the housing.  There should be a 1/8" diameter hole there.  That's the release pin access hole.  If it's not there, then you need to remove thesteering wheel to access it...2 different designs.
Then, turn the key to the 'on' position and with a small probe, push the release pin in and pull the lock cyl out.

I wish I had pictures of this, but the column design is so old, they are hard to get.  I will find some and post them on our website in the next few weeks.  Lots of people are asking about this design.

Good luck
Doug

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Yes you have. I notice that you rebuild steering columns. I wish I had known that the first time around. I would have sent it to you in order to have a spare. How much do you charge? I have been hearing of design flaws in this style and might as well have an excellent one ready rather than a twenty year old one from a trash heap. Ralph  

Answer
Ralph:
Depending on the extend of the damage and the parts needed, they range from $150 to $300 plus shipping (if we can get the parts we need...it's getting harder to find parts for the older ones)
Remove the steering wheel and ship it without---it's cheaper)
Keep in touch through the contact us page of the website in the future if you need our services.  I'm glad I could help you

Doug