Triumph Repair: Triumph TR7 Not Starting: Follow Up, spark plug wires, crank pulley

Question
Hi Howard;

Thanks for responding to my earlier question about my '79 Triumph TR7 not starting.

I have performed just one of your suggested checks before finding the problem.  I started out with a compression check with the throttle open.  I obtained the following values (in cylinder order 1, 2, 3, 4): 155, 160, 160, 160 (psi).  

After I checked the compression,  I moved to your next suggested test, in which the spark plugs are removed and connected to their respective spark plug wires (please see your earlier response).  When doing so, I decided to remove the distributor cap and re-check the position of the rotor.  If you remember, I had the distributor out to install a Pertronix.  Putting the motor at TDC (as per the crank pulley and the camshaft index marks) I noticed that the rotor was not lined up with cylinder 1.  I then removed the distributor and reinstalled it, with the rotor turned one more "tooth" on the jackshaft.  Now it appeared to be lined up with cylinder 1.  I then tried to start the car and it fired.

So...it appears that I had the distributor incorrectly installed.

However now there is another problem I would like your advice on.  The engine will turn over and fire, but it will not idle.  It starts and runs for maybe 1-2 seconds, and then dies.  

I know I have compression, spark and the timing is fairly close.  I cannot run a vacuum test since the engine won't run.  I'm thinking this is a fuel delivery problem?  Are TR7 fuel pumps problematic?  Any advice on how to proceed?  I've thought about bypassing the mechanical pump with an electric one to test my theory, but I thought I'd ask for your input first.

Thanks again for the help,
Matt

Answer
Matt, you need to set the ignition not "fairly close" but on the correct timing before proceeding to FUEL. Then to test for fuel delivery easier then a by pass pump just spray starting fluid into the intake and start the engine and see if you can keep it running on the spray. If you can, then put a "T" in the line and a fuel pressure gauge to see if the fuel pressure is correct and that it is maintained when running. (1.5 to 3 PSI) (A "T" fitting and a gauge is a lot cheaper then an electric pump.)

You need to forget trying to think what is wrong and only do a systematic testing procedure and you can not fail to find the problem. 100% of the time. In the dealerships, we were paid only for fixing things and not for the time we put into it. We had a systematic testing procedure for just about everything on the car.

Howard