Triumph Repair: Early TR250 carbs, fuse block, air leaks

Question
QUESTION: Howard,
I have horns on my 250 that only have one terminal on the head of the unit. Everything I have seen shows two terminal connections so I do not know how to connect the system up. There is a three connection block on the drivers side horn and I have located the Purple and Purple and black wires. Also, when I move the steering wheel I am grounding out the circuit because the horn wants to buzz when power is connected. Do you have have any advise on a one terminal horn system and the unwanted grounding when the steering wheel moves?

ANSWER: Hi Stan,
One purple wire is power coming from the fuse block and attaches to one side of one horn and a purple jumper goes on a double connector and runs to the other horn. A purple w/black tracer wire goes on the other connector of the horn and connects to the other connector on the other horn. A second purple w/black goes on the double connector with the other purple w/black and goes up to the horn button which is a ground to make the horns blow. If the horns try to blow just by connecting them to the horn push, then you have short in that area as the horns should not be grounded until you push the horn button.
Howard

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QUESTION: Howard having got that done here is another very important question. I have had the early ZS 175cd carbs rebuilt and they are on the car. All connections are tight no air leaks etc. However, the rear crab runs rich and the front carb lean. Since I do not have adjustable needles how can I get them running right. They are synchronized and the bypass valve is adjusted as outlined in the manual. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Stan

ANSWER: Check the position of the needles in the piston to see if one is mounted lower than the other and check the chokes and float levels in the float chambers. Also check to see that both needles are the same number or letter.
Howard

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QUESTION: Howard,
Horns work well in fact too well. I seem to have a dead short in the steering column or somewhere in the feed back system. I pulled the steering weal and checked the insolating plate from the horn button checked out ok. Cleaned everything I could think of and reassembled. Horn works but there is still a dead short somewhere. There is some play in then column and it will short out the horn. Am I messing something here like an isolation collar or something?

Answer
Stan, even with worn upper shaft bearings the horn ring is quite large to be shorted out by that so I would look closer at the wire as it leaves the horn ring. When you say "Short" I take it to mean the horn blows without you pushing the horn button? The large horn ring is insulated from the casing.
Howard