Triumph Repair: TR6 Clutch adjustment, clutch master cylinder, clutch adjustment

Question
Hey Jim,
Great answer to the 2004 guy who had a 71 TR6 with a hard to chift clutch.  I have the same problem.  I just yesterday bought a 71 TR6 that has been sitting  for about 8 months and is very hard to get into gear without grinding (ahhhhh!).  The clutch wants to engage directly on the floor.  Shifting, as with the other guy's car, is no problem with the car off.  I am now trying your suggestion of letting the clutch "bleed itself" by wedging a board against the clutch peddal while fully depressed.  Couple of questions:
1) Do I remove the cap from the clutch master cylinder or leave it on during this manuever?
2) How long do you think this will take?  I'm in northern Florida and the current temps are low 50's at night to low 70's during the afternoon.  Humidity is around 50-60%, don't know if this information is useful or not.
3) What is the best method for bleeding the clutch if this method doesn't work.  Thanks, Ken

Answer
Ken,

The clutch reservoir cap should have a small vent hole... you might make sure it's not closed with "junk".

Or you could just loosen the cap slightly to ensure you're not getting a vacuum in the reservoir.

I haven't done this myself on a TR6 but it does work on my Spitfires, so at least the theory is sound.  :D

It might work in a day or two... if you can "afford" a week that'd be better.  

If that doesn't work then you'll have to do a proper bleed.  If you can reach the bleeder valve from under the car then you won't have to pull the front carpet/trans cover.  Otherwise, time to pull the interior apart.

Get some 1/4" i.d. clear vinyl tubing and put it over the end of the bleed valve before pumping fluid out.  This will 1) keep air from getting sucked back in and 2) allow you to see the air/crud coming out of the system.  Angle the tubing up from the bleed valve... and put the other end into a catch can/jar.  DOT3/DOT4 brake fluid will remove paint, so be careful with handling it.

If after a proper system bleed it doesn't work then it's time for new hydraulics.  Not cheap.. but cheaper than a trans rebuild.  If you do have to rebuild... it's best to replace ALL the seals at the same time (or replace the components themselves) rather a piece at a time... as in the master this week... the slave in 3 months, etc.


Cheers,

Jim