BMW: 1986 bmw 325es electrical, temp guage, gauge wire

Question
Hi Dan I am having trouble with my car and have asked Josh
fields about it but his suggestion didn't work so I was wondering
if you could help. This is what I have asked him:
-------------------------

Followup To

Question -
Hi Josh
I have a 1986 BMW 325es that has some kind of electrical
problem.
When I go to start the car, all of the accessory electrical works,
the
power windows and sunroof and temperature gauge does not
work.
Also when the key is in the start position, nothing happens,
there is
no response from the starter at all. I also tried to pop the clutch
to
get the car to start and there is no spark. I have checked the
fuses,
and battery and they are good. I am also fairly sure that none of
the
relays are bad but it could be a possibility. If you could help me
or
give me suggestions as to what is wrong that would be greatly
appreciated, thanks.

Answer -
Jonathan,
I know that the solenoid on the starter can cause issues like this
(had it happen).  There is a small (16-gauge?) wire that connects
to the solenoid beside the larger wires from the battery.  You
should be able to disconnect this wire and see if your windows
work.  If they do, I'm almost positive that the solenoid is bad.

 Good luck,
 Josh
_______________________________________________________________
we tried that and it did nothing. So if you could
suggest something else. I noticed also that the engine oil light is
on but there is sufficient oil, the temp guage goes to hot when
you turn the key on. We took out the ecu and turned the key on
and it acted the same way. So we are kind of suspicious of the
ECU but we don't want to buy a new one if we don't need to so if
you could give me more info on the ecu and how to check it that
would be greatly appreiciated.
Thanks Dan,
Jon

Answer
Jon,
Sorry Josh was unable to help. Unfortunately it sounds as if his suggestion is the one I would have goven you. The only other things I would check are the DME main relay, possibly called the unloader relay in you wiring schematics. The other would be the wiring harness connector under the center of the intake manifold that is probably 12-16 pin round connector. It should be straight down from the throttle body. The back sides of that connector have been known to corrode inside the weather seal. The following text is an old service bulletin that talks about the starter problem with a little bit more detail. Good luck.
............................................................
SUBJECT:
Binding/Sticking Ignition - Starter Motor Failures


MODELS:
E30/E31/E32/E34/E36 (vehicles produced before 6/94)


Situation:
We have received reports of vehicles with failed starters, some with multiple failures. The starter usually does not function after the vehicle is turned off. On E30 and E34 vehicles, symptoms the customer may indicate are loss of sunroof, window and seat heating the last time the vehicle was driven.
Vehicles may also have a discharged battery as a result of continued starter engagement, and some customers may notice an additional whirring noise from under the hood after starting.

Although few cases have been reported, it is possible this problem can occur on a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission. In this case, the gear selection switch (neutral safety switch) will cause the starter to disengage as soon as the vehicle is shifted into Drive or Reverse. However, the starter will attempt to re-engage with the running engine when the gear selector is placed in Neutral or Park, causing a loud grinding noise and potential flywheel/starter pinion damage.


Cause:
The steering lock is intermittently jammed or binding in the "start" position.

The battery can be drained as the starter continues to run. The "unloader" relays cause the windows and sunroof to be inoperative (E30/E34). The starter incorporates a one-way clutch that allows the engine to spin faster than the starter, so it may be difficult to detect that the starter is remaining engaged. However, prolonged engagement of the starter will overheat the motor windings and may eventually cause the starter to fail.


Correction:
When a vehicle with a failed starter is brought in, or the customer has complaints similar to the above, the starter electrical system (including "unloader" relay circuits) should be checked for proper function. The starter pinion and flywheel teeth should be examined for scoring or other mechanical damage that would indicate misalignment or improper mounting surfaces.

If a check of the starter electrical system and flywheel/pinion does not reveal a problem, the ignition cylinder/lock assembly is causing the prolonged starter engagement. The entire MECHANICAL portion of the steering lock (lock cylinder, steering lock assembly) must be replaced along with the "electrical" ignition switch. The starter must be replaced if damaged.

It is imperative that a questionable ignition lock cylinder be replaced, as repeat occurrences of starter failure are particularly disappointing to customers. To reduce customer inconvenience, it may be helpful to install a precoded ignition lock cylinder temporarily. Although this forces the customer to use two different keys for unlocking and starting, the vehicle can be returned to the customer without excessive delay. When the "correct" coded ignition lock cylinder arrives at the dealership, it can then be installed at a later date convenient to the customer.