Volkswagen: 1987 westy syncro, power window switch, coolant lines

Question
Hi,
I planning on a fairly major re-work of the electrical system on my 87 westy this winter. I'd like to move the batteries from under the seats. I plan on putting a gel cel (optima) under the back seat for the starter and a large deep-cycle in the space where the spare used too be (spare-carrier on back now). Along with this I plan on putting a tricle-charger/AC supply hardwired into the batteries and into an old school coolant heater (like a block heater but hooked into the coolant lines). I thought it would be slick to hook up the tricle charger so that when I plug into the existing westfalia 120 hookup it automatically starts charging the batteries without diableing the existing 120 inside the van. I plan on putting an isolator on the starting battery too. And if this is not enough the passenger side e-window is out, a common problem that I'd like to fix. I have the Bently manual. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
many thanks
Ethan.


Answer
I love your idea, but it has risks.

If you are going to be camping, some of those heavy-duty batteries need to be vented, so you don't have any risk of acid fumes in the sleeping area.

I think I can best help, if you provide me with the following:

1) What accessories would you like to run off #2 battery, other than the fridge?

2) How many amps would you like an A/C inverter to put out when on battery-only power?
(TV/Heater/etc)

I can give you my suggestions on how to get the whole thing together, and put a 'safety' relay in there, that prevents the starting battery from draining should you fall asleep with a battery-operated appliance on.

Next, I can give you the model number of a device that will trickle-charge the battery.  (It never shuts off on A/C power, it simply stays on and monitors the battery charging, while still providing A/C Power.)


Finally, in regards to your window:  Go to a local junk-yard, spend about 2.00 for a power window switch, and see your switch went.  Next, jiggle the wires that go into the door. (kind of a chubby harness).... while jiggling it, see if the window activates.   Sometimes, opening and closing the door will simply flex the wire too much until it breaks.
Next, check the power window lock on the driver side, sometimes they fail.   If that does nothing, no worries --- let me know, and I'll talk you through getting the door panel off, and I'll help you hunt down a good used motor.

Best of Luck & Sorry for the delay, I went on vacation and forgot to notify the site!

Ron Wolff