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i have a 69' bug, 1641..34 pict 4 solex, it was rebuilt 2 yes ago, i went out to start it today, drove it for a block and then it started to make a noise that sounded like a giant locust, i looked it up and a manual said it might be the rings, but it does not have an oil leak and it does not spit out lots of smoke, also i find it hard to believe that the ring would break, last time i had it in the mechanic said everything on it still looked like new, .. would it make that noise if all the valves dropped, or if the fuel pump or oil pump went out, i thouhgt maybe you would know
thanks for your time
Answer -
Hi Josh,
Try a compression test on each cylinder. Make sure the compression is within specs. (try a Bentley manual, or look online).
This will tell us whether it's an internal issue or, something superficial.
Good Luck, and I'll be glad to help you through the next step if necessary.
RW
thanks ron
i dont have anything to test the compression right now, but i am sure at least the right side valves are dropped, so i am going to adjust them in a few days, another question tho, i lloked thru my green idiots book for volkswagon, and it has a lot of steps of turning crank 90 degrees this way then 180 degrees that way, which is ok and i can do, but i looked online and vw trends lists about half of the steps, something about find tdc and adjust all the valves on pistons one and two then turn it counterclckwise and do the other side, heres the link http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0106vwt_valve/index.html
can you tell me which one is better
thanks again
Answer -
Hi Josh,
My opinion is that the VW Trends one is the best. It is simply a 'short cut'.
No worries either way.
Here's what you need to do.
1) If your distributor has not been taken out, line up the notch in the rim of the distributor w/the rotor.
2) That is #1 firing position, and you should double-check that the corresponding wire on the cap is going to #1 cylinder. (The shroud has the correct cylinder # stamped on the metal cylinder barrel cover.
3) The valve clearance should be .006 on both.
4) Turn the engine 180 Degrees backwards, and do #2
5) Turn the engine again, do #3, again checking that the plug in the cap is going to number 3 (The drivers side, closest to front of car.) THIS IS AN IMPORTANT valve for your year, if it's single port. Ensure that you have .006. If they are tight, yet adjustable --- heat is stretching them, so make it a point to check them more often.
6) Finally, turn the engine again backwards to do #4.
7) Now you are back to the beginning -- double check the rotor is lined up with the notch in the distributor. The spark plug wire that rotor is pointing at should be for #1.
8) I always recheck my clearances, to be safe.
SUMMING IT ALL UP..
- If you find #1 on the distributor. It's easy to remember the reverse firing order of the motor, by turning it backwards:
1 - 2 - 3 - 4
That easy. (Moving forward it is 1-4-3-2)
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Note on your valves: Make sure the engine is completely cool before you gap the clearance. It should be cool to the touch.
Now you must look in the ole Idiots book, and get the correct timing for your beauty. Set the timing, and also check the dwell of the points. (that is also in the book you have).
Change the oil.
Check to ensure there is no debris in your cooling fan (ENGINE OFF!)
Make sure no tin has fallen off your engine.
Check that the thermostat is working, and the flaps are opening and closing properly. Also reach behind to make sure the emergency return spring for the flaps is hooked up as well.
New Oil bath / Air Filter (whichever you have), make sure no vacuum hoses are cracked in the least. You have to pull off the fabric ones and look inside.
Change cap, rotor, points, plugs, wires if more than 7K miles on either.
Once all of this has been done to specs, you will have maximized every opportunity to make a stock engine run as cool as possible, literally.
Get that done first, and than we can address the carb issue. I'm here to help man, summer's around the corner, so let's get it right!
Sounds like you are right on track.
hey thanks for the help so far man really appreciate it
one more question before i start on the valves, when i check for the gap, i noticed in my idiot book it says to hold down the valve, so do i hold open the valve and set the gap while i hold it open or do i gap it without moving any part
thanks again
josh
AnswerHi Josh,
Lightly hold the rocker arm (the part that you are adjusting) so it touches the push rod underneath it.
You should actually be pulling out the top part where the adjuster nut is. Not too hard, again, just so it is nicely touching the push rod below.
That is important to do, and will give you a nice gap.
(Make sure you check the valves gap again when you have run the motor and it cools completely down).
This will ensure no valves are too tight - which will ultimately toast your motor.
You'll be fine!
