Volvo: Volvo 1995 960 - No Start Issues, ohm meter, ground connections

Question
Hi Ray:

I have had an issue with my 1995 960 which I have owned and have driven 300,600 miles.  A real member of the family.  It has been a great car.  Here is my issue and questions.

My daughter, god bless her, was driving the car on I-95 in Virginia apparently in "low" and probably pushed the RPMs through the roof.  I suspect the music was on to loud for her to recognize that she was in "low".  The end result was a broken timing belt.  That was the beginning.  So being fairly skilled mechanically, I replaced the entire head, tensioner pulley, timing belt and ran a compression check (180-150) and was satisfied with the results. I did not check for error codes at that time.

I started the car and it had to crank about 4 seconds to fire.  Typically, the car previously started in a second or less.  I took the vehicle to drop off some garbage and the trip lasted no more than ten minutes.  I then returned to my garage to add more coolant to the system.  I then added the coolant and the car wouldn't start.  No start at all.  Inspecting the vehicle I noticed that I had not completely connected the alternator.  Stupid error.  Then I began to trouble shoot.  This is what I checked.

Immediately checked the battery and charged it.  Ran an error code check and got "No RPM Signal" and also got lose or broken connection to the "SL Solenoid".  I replaced the Motronic 1.8 CPU, same model number, and got the exact same codes as previously mentioned.  I completely cleaned all ground connections, checked the two "igniters", got 43 PSI fuel pressure at the rail, spliced into the wiring harness to see if the RPM signal was going into the CPU (yes), checked all fuses w/ ohm meter, checked all relays and still no start?  The only thing I haven't checked is the SL Solenoid which I think is shoot given my daughter's confession.  Could a bad SL Solenoid pre-empt the CPU logic?  Also, I haven't checked the individual coil packs w/ the recommended Volvo diode as I am pretty sure the plugs aren't getting energized.  The only potential tell tale issue, over the previous 12 months, was the tachometer appeared to be "jumpy" in the 2500-3000 rpm range.  However, back then, the car ran great and I thought nothing of it.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  

Regards,

Bill


Answer
Bill,
I see no reason the solenoid should have anything to do with a no start. Now in the event you are not getting spark maybe one of the power packs has gone bad. The ones that are front and rear of the intake manifold. Or is the wire harness starting to fray and go bad? The ground wires under the spark cover are they all connected and in good shape? I can not explain why you got a no RPM signal fault and the signal was traceable. Is the connector tight and or maybe a wire pulled out?