QuestionQUESTION: I also have the intermitent starting problem. I looked on the izook site for the relay kit you mentioned, but cant seem to find it. Do you know where I could get one one, or am I better off changing the ignition switch and not doing the relay? Which do you reccomend? Hope to hear from you - Thanks - Ben
ANSWER: It's there. Go to izook dot com, click links, click rocky road outfitters, click engine, and it's in that section, it's $23. the problem is that the starter needs more to the solenoid than the wiring and ignition switch supplies. The relay solves that.
scotty
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: You're right, I found it! I was reading the description on the kit, and it mentions it fixes the "clicky" starter. My starter doesnt "click" - never has. My sidekick just flat out wont start sometimes. It doesnt even crank, it wont make any clicking noise like most starters will when they are on the brink. I can start it by popping the clutch, and then I can get about 4-5 starts out of it just by turning the key. Then it decides it wont start. Could this be the ignition switch (controller) gone bad, that needs replacing or will the kit from rocky road do the trick? I really appreciate any advice or knowledge you can impart. Thank You Again - Ben
ANSWER: Here's what the syndrome is about. There's too much power lost between the battery and the starter going through the fuse box, clutch switch, and starter switch to activate the starter solenoid properly. There are a couple of tests you can do to see if this is your problem. First would be to hook up jumper cables to another vehicle that's running, after your starter has failed to work. If it starts with the increased power and voltage of a jump to a running vehicle, it's a positive symptom. The other is to hook up a jumper wire to the positive battery post, and then (WITH THE TRANS IN NEUTRAL!!!) connect it to the spade terminal on the starter solenoid. If the starter cranks, that too is a positive symptom. What the relay kit does is supply power direct from the battery to the starter solenoid. This is an old fix that mechanics used on many other vehicles like fifties VWs, VW buses, Porsche 356s and 914s, and dozens of other vehicles. Many times there's not enough power to even make the starter click. It could be a symptom of marginal output from the charging system, or a old ready to die battery as well.
scotty
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Thanks for the explanation! Now Im starting to understand. What can I do to fix the issue besides using the kit from rocky road outfitters? I assume there are parts I can buy to keep it stock? Would I need a new selinoid, ignition control, etc? I would rather replace the proper parts and keep it how it is intended to be if possible. If it is not possible I will go forward with the kit. What parts would you reccomend replacing to solve my starting problem. Once again I truly appreciate all of your wisdom and insight.
Greatest Thanks - Ben
AnswerIt's very simple. The relay is a magnetically actuated set of contacts. The contacts power the starter solenoid direct from the battery when the ignition switched power causes the coil to become a magnet and closes the contacts when the clutch pedal is depressed and the ignition swotch is turned to "start" position. Make certain the battery is in good condition, and the starter is not old and drawing high amperage when cranking (more than 100 amps)
scotty
