Jeep Wrangler JK Flat Bottom Skidplate - Jp Magazine

Jeep Wrangler JK Flat Bottom Skidplate - Flat Bottom Baby John Cappa Former Editor, Four Wheeler wrangler Jk Flat Bottom Skidplate installed Photo 11749781

Ask around Hollywood and no one will tell you they want a flat bottom. But any respected Jeep owner would jump at the chance to have a bolt-on flat bottom skidplate. And of all the Jeeps that need additional underside protection, the '07-'09 Wrangler is near the top. Sure the factory JK skidders were designed to support the weight of the Jeep, but a constant barrage of rock-strewn trails will beat those factory skidplates and many of the unprotected vital components into submission. Enter Poly Performance, a company that has experience in building skidplates for Jeeps that hit the rocks all day at a snails pace and battle Baja at 90mph. And that's pretty much what the company built for the JK Wrangler in the form of a three skidplate package that protects the engine oil pan, tranny, exhaust, and transfer case.

PhotosView Slideshow The underside of an '07-'09 Wrangler isn't really protected all that well, especially if you have a manual transmission. The exhaust on our manual two-door was taking a beating. We were lucky and hadn't hit the low-hanging engine oil pan yet, but we had slightly bent the thin transmission crossmember. The Poly Performance three skidplate package replaces all of this with 3/16-inch Grade 50 A-572 steel plate. First you need remove the triangular transfer case skidplate (and automatic transmission skidplate if equipped). Then several of the pre-existing threaded mounting holes in the framerails need to be drilled out to 29/64 inch and tapped with a 1/2-20 tap. Using a cutoff wheel, angle grinder, or reciprocating saw you need to cut off the forward-most 3 inches of the factory gas tank skid plate. Watch out for the fuel tank, it's made of plastic and it's close by. The transmission should be supported with a jackstand or tranny jack while you remove the factory transmission crossmember. All of the original crossmember mounting hardware is reused so don't toss it. The Poly Performance tranny crossmember/skidplate is heavy and hard to maneuver and mount. It can be done by one person, but it's easier if you have a buddy hold it up while you install the included countersunk bolts. Use plenty of anti-seize on the threads because this area has a high potential for rust. There are access slots in the Poly Performance skidplate that are way-helpful when tightening the mounting hardware. However, a magnet on the end of a stick is pretty much mandatory for getting the nuts started on the passenger side crossmember bolts. We needed a pair of locking pliers to clamp our factory gas tank skidplate in place while drilling the mounting holes and installing the self-tapping flush-mounted bolts. Be careful when drilling because the soft plastic fuel tank is just on the other side of where you are punching holes. The oil pan skidplate mounting brackets attach to the factory motor mounts on both sides of the engine. The skidplate attaches to these and then to the new heavy-duty crossmember/skidplate. It's an intensive install, but the skidplates fit up well. Even the drain hole cut into the oil pan skidder worked perfect when we changed the oil. No mess, no fuss.