If this '54 Chevy looks familiar to you eagle-eyed readers, it's because Delton Russell's ride was the subject of the Fatman Fabrications dropped spindle upright story we did in the January '07 issue of SRM. But then, one of the perks of Delton's job at Fatman is that it offers him access to the latest and greatest products before they're released; so, the '54 is back again, this time for an all-new suspension modification.
One of the practical issues to be dealt with when creating new aftermarket parts is research and development. That's another way of saying you make something and then try it out. Delton's Chevy was the test vehicle for Fatman's new dropped uprights, even though future plans were to update the chassis with a Mustang II IFS, small-block Chevy and automatic, and a later rearend.
Delton's Chevy is truly a work in progress, and changes are being made as time and money allows. One of the biggest mistakes most homebuilders make is to blow a car apart with grandiose ideas only to find the project turns into a life-long activity. Delton wants to enjoy his car, so it's only off the road long enough to make one change at a time. That's one of the reasons the stock engine is staying put for now, but a five-speed and a '57 rear will soon be put in place to make the six-banger happier at highway speeds.
While even more running gear changes are in store for the dual-door in the future, the next step in the Chevy's transformation was the installation of a Fatman Mustang II IFS. Delton's build style leans toward the old school, so he wasn't looking to lay the rocker panels on the ground. For that reason, he chose the standard-height kit for an authentic vintage style (an ultra-low version is also available). Take a look at the following photos to see how easy it is to make a good car even better in not a lot of time, and for not a lot of money.
Fatman Fabrications'
Tips On Building An Affordable '49-54 Chevy
Chevys from '49-54 have become very popular for a variety of good reasons-not the least of which are that they are good-looking, easy to find, and affordable to build. And to make them even more appealing, Fatman has developed a number of suspension options, including dropped-spindle uprights for original suspension systems, installation kits for Mustang II IFS, and narrow A-arms for cars with subframes.
For the best ride and handling, the crew at Fatman has found the Mustang II suspension with power rack-and-pinion steering is the best choice for '49-54 Chevys. It is very easy to install and reasonably priced. Removing the stock suspension is simply a matter of unbolting it; once that is done, the mounting holes should be welded solid to maintain the structural integrity of the frame. The radiator support can even remain in place for easy remounting of the sheetmetal.
When installing the new front crossmember, the front axle centerline is determined by the rear boltholes on the V bracket for the original front suspension. On some '53-54 cars, the front axle centerline looks better 1 inch farther back, so check the location of the wheels in the fenders before disassembly.
Tubular control arms are recommended since the stock strut rods will interfere with the trans mount K-member leg. Mustang II V-6 springs are about right with a small-block Chevy, while Mustang II V-8 springs work well with big-blocks. Half of a coil can be cut off the springs for a 1-inch drop to fine-tune the ride height after all the weight is on the car. Do not trim over one full coil to maintain ride quality. Steering hookup is best accomplished with a 30- to 32-inch aftermarket column, or a '78-87 Monte Carlo/Malibu OEM unit. A Fatman three-joint hookup kit with Borgeson U-joints will clear any engine and exhaust combination we've seen, and aftermarket shift linkages from Lokar work great.
Thanks to the size of the engine compartment, either small- or big-block engines fit well, especially when coupled to a TH350 trans. The stock trans mount works fine once the rivets are replaced with bolts to allow easy transmission servicing. Turbo 400 and 700-R4 trans will require a new crossmember that can be fabricated from 2-inch square tubing in a K-member shape similar to the original. Be sure to bolt it to the frame flanges at four locations. These larger transmissions will also require a new bolt-in pedal assembly, as the original is lost when the stock mount is removed. Fatman tubular motor mounts weld in, provide excellent clearance for steering hookup, and reinforce these somewhat-weak frames.
A '68-79 Nova or Camaro unit that is 60 inches hub to hub works well for a rearend. They fit best with 15x7-inch rims, as the wheelwells in these cars are narrow. However, 8-inch rims can be used by reworking the outer/inner wall of the wheelhouses. (If that seems confusing, just reach inside the wheelhouses and you'll understand.) A 58-inch axle (from a '65-67 Nova, '67-70 Mustang, or '75-80 Granada) will work just right with the wider wheels.
One of the unique features of the '49-54 Chevy rear suspension is the location of the center bolts in the springs. These center bolts are not actually in the center of the spring because of the brackets used on the torque-tube rearend housing. So, the wheels will not be centered in the fenders if a conventional mounting saddle is used on a replacement housing. To make mounting the rear axle easier, we offer mounting kits with 1 3/4-inch axle saddles already corrected for the spring pin location that centers the tires in the fenders. A lower shock mount is also provided, but upper mounts will have to be fabricated based on the ride height of the car. Fatman welds a 5/8-inch-id tube through the frame, and uses a 5/8-inch bolt long enough to mount the upper shock eye. Then, all but the five longest rear leaves are either removed, or POSIES rear springs are used to lower the car. Chassis Engineering makes an excellent rear spring and shock kit-that is the easiest way to go for a few more bucks. These cars need a rear sway bar, but no one makes one expressly for them. A rear sway bar originally made for a '40 Ford adapts easily, and is listed with other parts. You won't need a front sway bar unless you are nose-heavy with a big-block, top-heavy with a wagon, or run at a conservative ride height.
There are a number of choices when it comes to brakes. An ECI pedal adapter with a '67-72 Mustang 1-inch-bore, dual-master cylinder works well. Pedal effort is reasonable when used with the 11-inch disc brakes supplied in Fatman kits. A power-boosted pedal assembly is available, but it's a tight fit. A firewall-mounted pedal isn't as clean, but it's easier to install and service. Another option is a Mustang II master cylinder with a 15/16-inch bore. It's already valved for front disc and rear drum brakes and eliminates the need for a booster. Fatman's experience shows that the large front brakes provide proper front-to-rear bias without a proportioning valve to reduce rear pressure.
Of course, there are options to the Mustang II installation. Camaro and Nova subframes have been popular in the past, but they present problems with appearance, proper placement of the suspension, and difficult sheetmetal and bumper mounting. Excess width can also be an issue, but Fatman has narrowed tubular arms and dropped spindles for cars that have been subframed. For those who want to retain the original suspension, Fatman offers 2-inch dropped spindles and steering arms. Bolt-on disc brakes are also available; however, power steering and rack conversions have been attempted with disappointing results, so plan on staying with the stock steering box.
All things considered, '49-54 Chevys are easy and affordable to build, and the end result is a fun, good-looking car you can drive anywhere.
Parts List· MII IFS basic kit: $399· Hub to hub with standard polished stainless arms: $1,795· ECI disc brake adapter kits: $110 (Chevy) / $140 (Ford)· ECI master cylinder adapter (automatic only, no convertibles): $100· MP power pedal assembly: $370· NL firewall power pedal assembly: $390· Tubular motor mounts: $65· CE trans mount kit: $27 (for '49-52) / $45 (for '53-54)· Rearend mounting kit: $140· POSIES springs: $27 (f) / shackles: $20· CE SB3540R rear sway bar: $130· Two-inch dropped uprights and steering arms: $510· Disc kit for stock spindles: $140· Narrowed arms for GM subframes: $799
