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Long-Term Storage Question: I am active-duty military and will be moving to Italy this summer. Since the roads are extremely narrow and parking is scarce, I will leave my '00 7.3L Ford Excursion in the United States until I return. Can you provide some insight on proper methods for long-term (2 to 3 years) storage of a diesel vehicle, and the pitfalls I should be aware of?
Nate Palmer Manassas, Virginia
| If you're working on a project vehicle, you should practice the same attention to detail you would for long term storage. This truck was kept indoors in a dry, secure place while the engine was being overhauled.
Answer:
Here are some good ideas we've picked up from our own experiences. If you do all these things, we'd say your vehicle has a good chance of being in one piece when you return.
• Store the vehicle indoors and in a clean, dry place. Storing a vehicle outdoors is just asking for trouble (paint fade, rust, dry-rotted tires, and pest damage).
• Make sure your storage location will be secure while you are gone, and make sure your vehicle will be under lock and key at all times.
• Clean the storage location first, getting rid of dust, dirt, and moisture on the walls, roof, and floor.
• Change all the vehicle's fluids, and drive the vehicle one last time until all the fluids get up to operating temperature. This will distribute a clean coating of lube to the internals of the engine, drivetrain, and steering systems.
• Remove the batteries or hook them up to a battery tender because all batteries discharge over time.
• If possible, place the vehicle on jackstands to relieve the strain on the tires.
• Plug the exhaust tip to prevent critters from using the tubing as a winter home.
• Make sure the vehicle's exterior is spotlessly clean, dry, and has a healthy coat of wax.
• Cover the vehicle with a car cover.
• Vacuum, dust, and clean the interior. This will keep rodents, pests, mold, and mildew from overcoming the interior.
• Leave a couple of open boxes of baking soda on the floorboards to absorb any moisture that may accumulate during storage.
If this type of long-term storage still has you worried, you could also leave the vehicle with a trusted friend who would be willing to start it up and drive it up and down the block about once a week. Either way, we'd say you'll be in a lot better shape than if you just park it and leave it.
Duramax LB7 Injection Solutions
Question:
I was wondering if anyone has come up with a solution to the LB7 injector problem. The new Bosch injectors and the GM remanufactured ones don't seem to be a solution, and from what I understand, both still use the problem-prone original injector bodies. I know of several LB7 owners who just plan on running their trucks into the ground since nobody has a cure for this problem.
James Allen
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
| Even with a team of experts who knew what they were doing, it still took Matt Handwork and his crew nearly 6 hours to install a new set of injectors in Matt's '03 Duramax during Diesel Power Challenge. If you can't do this type of work yourself, expect to pay a hefty sum in labor, as more than likely a whole crew of shop guys won't solely be working on your truck.
Answer:
One thing to keep in mind when examining the '01 to '03 LB7 Duramax injector issue is that these engines were designed for use in light-duty applications-they're not over-the-road diesel truck engines. Many point out that Cummins engines (especially the old mechanical ones) have injectors that can last 200,000 to 400,000 miles, but these engines were originally designed for medium-duty trucks, or stationary generators-both of which run for hours on end. The LB7 Duramax engine was also the first common-rail injected diesel offered by the Big Three, which meant it was also the first time common-rail injection was exposed to American consumers. With the introduction of ultra-low-sulfur diesel fuel in 2006, the lubricating properties of diesel have also diminished, which hasn't helped the injector issue. The reality is that common-rail injectors are wearable parts, and while the new Bosch injectors use an improved design (which should eliminate the body-cracking problem), they too will eventually wear out.
While this may sound all doom and gloom, there are things you can do to prolong the life of your injectors. Running a fuel additive (or even something as simple as a quart of transmission fluid) when you fill up will go a long way toward making Duramax injectors last. Also, change your oil and fuel filters often, as contamination is no good for injectors. As far as we know, there aren't any quick fixes for the LB7 injector issue, and with remanufactured injectors costing $2,400 a set or more, they're expensive to replace. The days of buying a set of $400 injectors are gone, and they're not coming back. The good news is that a new set of Bosch injectors-if the vehicle is properly maintained-should provide another 100,000 to 150,000 miles of trouble-free service.
To Overdrive Or Not To Overdrive?
Question:
I am in the process of building my own personal Project Rust Bucket. It's a '90 Dodge W250 four-wheel drive with the Cummins diesel engine. I have a 727 three-speed automatic transmission, and I need to know what to do with it. I want the truck to be reliable and make 500 hp at the wheels by next year. I also need it to be a nice tow rig without any issues. It would be nice if it would run low e.t.'s at the track, too, if I could have it all. My question is: Should I fully build the 727 or install a 47RH or 47RE? Can you please give me some advice about what transmission to choose?
Bradley Carter
Oakdale, California
Answer:
Whether or not you need to ditch the stock automatic is largely dependent on the usage of the vehicle. We've kept the 727 on Project Rust Bucket so far because it's been cheap, reliable, and since our truck is a two-wheel drive, we can't get enough traction to break it. If you just plan on fooling around and towing, the 727 with a good rebuild and a low-stall torque converter (available from companies such as Sun Coast Converters) will suit you just fine and will take more power than you think. We've seen Cole Dow's truck (see page 60) run 98 mph in the eighth-mile with a non-lockup transmission (a '93 A-518 with a billet input shaft), which indicates he was putting down about 800 hp to the wheels.
If you're planning on doing boosted drag racing launches and sled pulling, we'd probably recommend a 47RH out of a '94 to '95 Dodge (they use the least amount of electronics) with at least a billet input shaft and a triple-disc converter. The 47RH's lockup torque converter will help you put 50 to 100 more horsepower to the ground (depending on your power level), and the additional gear will give you a couple extra miles per gallon. You'll have to get a new crossmember fabricated, and the extra gear and lockup converter will add about $2,000 to $3,000 to the cost of the transmission versus a built-up 727, so it may simply come down to how much you want to spend. One last word of advice: If you do decide to stick with the three-speed, put a small lift and at least 33-inch tires on the truck. It'll lower your rpm on the freeway and make it possible for you to go faster than 70 mph.
