QuestionHello,
I have an 07 Black Tahoe. The drivers side fender wheel flare got some small damage from an improper backing plate on a rotary buffer. The backing plate dug into the top area of the plastic wheel flare and dug the paint up. I've removed the wheel flare from the vehicle as it will be easier to repair on its own, plus keep my tahoe mobile.
The damaged area I've sanded down with 400 grit to about the size of 1/2 dollar. My plan of attack is to use the following repair process:
1) Spray adhesion promoter for plastics (Do I need this?)
2) Spray a sandable primer to fill and level the area (I'm not sure if Dupont Fill & Sand can still be used, I've got some left over from years ago.)
3) Spray a sealer over damaged area (I have some dupont prime and seal left over from years ago)
4) Buy a small amount of black basecoat (I'll be using the Dupont Chromabase system, I still have some of the basemaker solvent left over). I will spray a couple coats just for coverage in that small area.
5) Spray clear coat over the entire wheel flare panel to blend everything in and not leave a line. (I have some leftover chromaclear from years ago, not sure if I can still use this)
Could you please comment on my process and products I will be using?
Could you also comment on the following question regarding the old and new clear coats?
I also plan on wet sanding the entire wheel flare clear coat and buffing when I'm done. Is it true that even though you're spraying "new" clear on top of "factory" clear for 95% of the panel...the "new" clear is what I will be wet sanding and buffing, and therefore need to ensure enough "new" clear is applied? In other words, if I accidently sanded through the "new" clear to the "factory" clear, will it all still match when buffed out or will there be a noticeable area/ring where the "new" clear is worn down and the "factory" clear is showing through?
Thanks for your help
AnswerHi Bob,
Sounds like a great plan of attack. I would would mention a couple of things:
1) I would use adhesion promoter if you get down into the plastic but just in that spot. It's not nessacery to spray over original paint.
2) I'm not familiar with Dupont products but if this is a catalyzed primer, sealer, or clear coat that uses a hardener you will need to check and see if the hardener is good. Most major paint manufacturers only claim their hardeners to be good for 2 weeks to 1 month after opening the first time.
3) Make sure you prep the entire flare with 800 to 1000 grit wet sand paper before doing your repair so that the clear coat will have a scratch to adhere to. Clear coat over a slick finish will peel off in time. You may have already known this, I just didn't see it in you procedure list.
4) Also use a good quality grease and wax remover before and in between each sanding step to make certain the surface is free of contaminants. You might look at a product called Polycracker. It's a good pre-paint prep wash that helps eliminate contaminants of all types. You can find information about it at this website:
http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_polycracker.cfm
Good luck with it and I hope the info. I have given might help you.
