QuestionThanks for the quick response.
The frame work under the roof skin is in great shape as far as I can tell. Only problem was condensation under the vynil roof caused the sheet metal to rust away. (The car sat uncovered in a field for about 20 years before I got it.)
The rust does come down the sail area somewhat, especially in the back around the window gasket.
Thanks
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The text above is a follow-up to ...
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I am restoring a '66 Mustang Coupe. The car is an orgional vynil top and the roof is badly rusted.
I have a donor roof from another car. How do I put this on?
Do I drill out the spot welds around the top sheetmetal roof and replace only that or do I cut frame and all and try to replace that.
I have already replaced the floor pans, fender aprons, radiator support and front cross member without any problems.
Any help would be appreciated.
Terry
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Hello Terry! If the supporting structure is rotted, or it's rusted out around the lead seams, You can graft the entire roof on if you sleeve the pillars and sail panels. CAREFULLY measure the window openings, including measuring them in an X. Cut the donor roof's windshield pillars about a third of the way down. Cut the sail panels below the lead seams, at least 2 0r 3 inches. Cut the old roof off, but cut it about a half inch long. You will need to trim and fit it up, and having too much is better than not enough. Trim and fit the roof until it matches the measurements you took earlier. Now, the sleeving part. Drill 5/16 holes in the sail panels, about 1 1/2 inches apart, along the seams. Inside and out, about a half inch or so below the seam. Do the same to the windshield pillars, you will only be able to get maybe 4 on the pillars. Now, do the same to the donor roof. Cut the donor cars sail panels to make a 3 inch wide sleeve. The nice thing about using pieces of the old sail panels is they have the same shape as the car, and are the same thickness. They will need trimmed. Do the same with the windshield pillars. Now, plug weld the sleeves inside of the car's sail panels and pillars. Install the new roof, first into the pillars, then the sail panels. It will probably take some trimming and prying. That is why you cut a third of the way down the pillars, see? It gives it a little extra flex. Once you have it in place, check dimensions again, and plug weld her on. Then, seam weld all the seams, with half inch long welds. Bounce around, don't get it too hot. This way will preserve the lead seams, and rid the car of any rusted out structure. You can drill off the old roof and plug weld just the skin on, if the support structure is sound. If possible, I would cut the roof above the lead seams, unless you know how to lead them back in. Bondo never lasts in lead seams. Either way will take about the same amount of time and work. How far down the sail panels does the rot go down the sail panels? That is the only potential problem I see. Bill
AnswerI would say, do what you feel comfortable doing. If you would rather drill off the skin, that way is great. Use 5/16 holes on the donor car, but use 5/16 spot weld bits on the good car. Try to avoid going thru both pieces. For me, chopping off the whole roof would be faster, I do this every day. The logistics don't bother me. I mostly suggested it because it sounds like you can handle it, and I've seen some nasty roof rust. If you have to, you can always cannibalize the donor car's sail panels if the sails are Swiss cheesey. I would grind the paint and rust off, and see if you have any good steel left. If not, you will need to remove the sail panels with the roof skin. You can graft the sails in anywhere you need, even take part of the tops of the quarters if necessarily. You will need to melt out the lead seams, and remove the sails separate from the roof skin. No way you will be able to not damage them if you try to keep them together, they're too flimsy. If you need any more help, I'll be around. Bill
