QuestionQUESTION: I have a problem with the rear passenger window of my 2006 Toyota Highlander. When I attempt to roll down the window, it will roll down sometimes but won't roll back up. I will manually slide the window up. For the most part I don't touch the window at all. However, over the weekend, the window was rolled down by pressing the power button. I closed it manually. Now, the rear passenger window slides down by itself when the car is in motion without pressing the window button.
What do you think could be the problem - the regulator or the motor?
I am anxiously awaiting your response. Thank you for your time.
Fatou
ANSWER: Hello Fatou,
I have repaired a problem similar to yours on a slightly older version of the Highlander. If Toyota has not changed the mechanism in your 2006 as compared to the older Highlander, then the problem is probably the same.
Before we go any further, please take the following steps.
1. Pull the glass all the way up to the top. (Note: If the glass is all the way down inside the door and you cannot grip it with your fingers, do not use any kind of pliers to grasp the glass. It will probably break.)
2. To secure the glass in the "up" position, place one piece of masking tape or packing tape on the outside of the glass near the top. Continue with the tape over the top of the door until it reaches the inside of the glass near the top.
3. Turn the ignition on so that you have power to the window switches. Don't start the engine. The engine noise will mask the sound of the window mechanism.
4. Press / pull the window button and listen for the sound of the mechanism. If the problem is what I think it is, you should be able to hear the mechanism move up and down inside the door. The window will stay in place where you taped it.
5. Now send me a follow up question with the results. In addition, tell me how mechanically inclined you are and if you have access to a reasonable variety of tools.
I'll be waiting to hear from you.
Ben ... the power window guy.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hi Ben,
I did what you asked and I did hear the sound of the mechanism move up and down inside the door. In fact, the window moved down a little bit.
I think I am mechanically inclined and can follow directions. It depends on what type of tools I would need.
Waiting to hear back from you.
Thank you.
Fatou
ANSWER: Hello Again Fatou,
Let me start by giving you a few items of window mechanism "jargon" so we are both speaking the same language. The "window motor" moves the "regulator arm" up and down in a short arc to raise and lower the glass. Let's call the small plastic roller an the end of the "regulator arm" a "guide". Next, let's refer to the metal piece attached to the bottom of the glass as the "lift channel". Finally, the front and back edges of the glass slide up and down in gaskets referred to as "glass run channels".
The glass in your rear door is no longer attached to the "window regulator". This happened because the "lift channel" has moved forward on the glass. This allows the "guide" at the end of the "regulator arm" to fall out of the "lift channel" as the arm moves downward on its arc to lower the glass.
To solve the problem you need to move the "lift channel" closer to the back edge of the glass. I realize you are immediately thinking "how far back?". I can't tell you exactly, but it probably won't be more than and inch or so.
I am assuming that you have a reasonable amount of mechanical aptitude and can figure out how to do this without step-by-step instructions. However, let me give you a few pointers.
1. After you have removed the door panel, remove the bolts that hold the bottom of the "glass run channels" in place.
2. Work the glass out of the "run channels" so you put the "guide" at the end of the "regulator arm" back into the "lift channel" on the bottom of the glass.
3. Move the "regulator arm" close to the bottom of its run before you attempt to put the "guide" at the end of the "regulator arm" back into the "lift channel" on the bottom of the glass.
4. After your have the "guide" at the end of the "regulator arm" back in the "lift channel" raise the "regulator arm" about three inches and then place the glass back in the "run channels".
5. Replace the bolts that hold the "run channels" to the bottom of the door.
6. Test the mechanism to see if it is working properly. If so, place a dab or two of adhesive in front of the "lift channel" so it can't slide forward on the glass again.
Let me know if I can do anything else to help.
Ben ... the power window guy
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hi Ben,
Thanks for your quick response. I wanted to know what type of tools I would need to remove the door panel. Also, what type of adhesive to use. Your instructions seem pretty straightforward especially after giving a crash course on window mechanism terminology. I appreciate that. I am waiting for your response before I attempt to fix the problem this weekend.
I await your response.
Thank you.
AnswerHi Fatou,
You will need the following tools:
1. A #2 phillips-head screwdriver for screws in the door panel and interior door handle.
2. A wrench or socket to remove the 2 10mm bolts that hold the "run channels" in place.
3. A small straight blade screwdriver to use as a prying tool.
4. A stiff putty knife about 4" long and about 1 1/4" wide to slide underneath the edge of the door panel to pry loose the plastic door panel fasteners located around the perimeter of the panel.
I think you can use any adhesive that will stick to rubber and glass. It shouldn't take much to prevent the "lift channel" from sliding forward after you have everything back in place.
Good luck with your project.
Ben ... the power window guy.
