Auto Parts: Strut repair, chevy lumina, rear struts


Question
QUESTION: Hi Knucklebuster,

I recently went to the mechanic regarding a noise that I was hearing a noise from my car (4-door 1997 Chevy Lumina). The mechanic took it for a drive and said it bounces a lot and the front 2 struts have to be replaced. It cost almost 400 to replace the front 2 strut cartridges. The noise continued and now he is saying the rear struts have to replaced also since they are bad. That'll be another 400. I just had 2 questions for you:
1. Are these prices the average in general (including labor)?
2. Can I go with out changing the rear struts for now?, if so, how long can I go approxiametely?

Thanks you so much.

-Bob

ANSWER: Hi Bob,

The noise you're hearing has nothing to do with the rear struts. Your mechanic is guessing at your expense. Get a second opinion or a new mechanic, not rear struts.

You drive the car, where is the noise coming from? The front or the rear of the vehicle? Left or right side?

I would check the stabilizer end links because that is a typical issue with the Lumina's of that era making faint clicking/clanking sounds.

To answer your questions, yes, unfortunately for the customer, that sounds like an average cost to replace two front struts. Can you do without new struts in the rear? Absolutely. Test them yourself and see how bad they are. First indication is a leak. If the strut cartridge is leaking, it's bad and should be replaced. Second, are the rear tires wearing oddly? cupping on the outer edges in a slightly wavy pattern? Do a bounce test. Push the corner of the vehicle down hard and fast and then let it settle. It should come back up and stop. Sometimes a slight recoil is seen but very slight. The body of the car should rest quickly. If the cartridge is leaking, replace it, if the tires are cupping, replace the struts and if they allow the car to bounce more than once, they are weak and should be considered for replacement.

Thanks for the question, I hope this information was helpful to you.
Fred
www.knucklebusters.us
"Re-use is the best form of recycling" Help us recycle by purchasing used parts from us!
Looking for an ASE Certified shop near you? ASE Certified Technicians are the BEST of the BEST!
Click here: http://www.ase.com/bluesealsearch/locator.php

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Fred,

Thanks for the reply. It was very helpful.

The noise is coming from the rear driver side tire. It normally occurs when you drive over a pot hole or bump. I didn't notice any cupping yet. The mechanic did put the car up on a lift to show us the leaky strut. Since it is leaky, it is probably recommended to change ASAP?

Thank you.

-Bob

ANSWER: Hi Bob,

You are correct. If the strut cartridge is visibly leaking, then it is in need of replacement.

My advice on finding a new technician still stands. Steer clear of 'chain' stores like Firestone, Sears, Pep Boys, Monro Muffler/Brake, Midas, etc. as they usually only employ ONE ASE Certified Tech just so they can say they do and chances are, that guy is the asst. manager or manager and is not in the store to diagnose/repair vehicles anyway. Find a service location in the link below or get some names out of the yellow-pages and do a drive-by. Garages that employ ASE Certified Technicians will be marked with the 'Blue-Seal' insignia. If unsure about whether a place employs Certified Techs, just ask to see their credentials. ALL ASE Certified Technicians will be PROUD to show and display their certificate(s).

Thanks for the question, I hope this information was helpful to you.
Fred
www.knucklebusters.us
570-453-0910
"Re-use is the best form of recycling" Help us recycle by purchasing used parts from us!
Looking for an ASE Certified shop near you? ASE Certified Technicians are the BEST of the BEST!
Click here: http://www.ase.com/bluesealsearch/locator.php

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hey Fred,

Thanks a lot for your help. I'm sorry for all the follow up questions, but I took your advice and checked around. The struts were bad and leaky (one was totally busted) so I had to get both rear struts replaced.
You were absolutely right about the noise though, its the stabilizer links. I wanted to get you advice on that, is that something I would need to change right away? if so, around what ball park figure would it cost?

Thanks again!

Answer
Hi Bob,

I'm glad I was right about something...lol

The Stabilizer bar holds the wheels to the ground regardless of what the body position is. If you were able to stand and look at your car go through a 35mph corner (speed does not matter here) you would notice that the body actually rolls or more correctly, yaws.

The bar connects via links with sandwiched bushings on either end. The center of the bar is connected fast to the cross-frame or engine cradle and on either end to the lower control arm. The bar is curved in a specific pattern and is actually composed of low-tempered spring-steel. This iron composite allows the bar to remain flexible while maintaining its shape and 'memory'.

Anyway, standing watching your car make a turn, let's say to the left, you'd notice that the right wheel and tire bear a substantial amount of the vehicles weight and get pushed up into the fender as the body yaws over while the left side wheel and tire would have a noticeable gap between the top of the tire and the fender. But the two wheels would be sitting square on the road surface.

The odd shape of the stabilizer and it's location are key to maintaining control of your vehicle while turning. When the left control arm is pushed up, the right one will be pushed down and visa-versa insuring that the wheels on your car are always riding on the road.

Can you drive around without one? or with a broken end-link? Sure, but it is safer to repair or replace the bad/broken component. Wheel-hop is the biggest issue with a bad end-link or two. When your wheels 'hop', they're obviously not planted to the ground and that can be dangerous. You probably feel the rear of the car swing a little more than it used to while turning and sometimes to the point you may even have to 'chase' it a little to keep it off of the guide-rail. Oh, I'm speaking for myself again, sorry.

A GOOD end link kit shouldn't cost more than about $35.00 and almost anyone who knows how to thread a nut onto a bolt can install it. It is just a big bolt with a few washers, bushings and a nut on the end and almost self-explanatory how to install.

Follow-ups are ok. I'm happy to help where I can. Keep us in mind if you plan to purchase any used auto parts in the future.

Thanks for the question, I hope this information was helpful to you.
Fred
www.knucklebusters.us
570-453-0910
"Re-use is the best form of recycling" Help us recycle by purchasing used parts from us!
Looking for an ASE Certified shop near you? ASE Certified Technicians are the BEST of the BEST!
Click here: http://www.ase.com/bluesealsearch/locator.php