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Followup To
Question -
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Followup To
Question -
I'm considering installing a keyless entry unit in my 1991 MR2, which has electric door locks, and a built in Anti-theft unit. I'm considering wiring the KE unit to the "Key lock & unlock" switches instead of to the door lock and unlock switches. I'm thinking that this should then allow the installed Anti-theft unit to operate normally. The pulses need to be negative (connect to ground). I'm thinking that a Commando KE30 would do the trick, as it's cheap & dirty, and all I need is the negative going pulse for the lock & unlock, and don't need alarm, remote start, trunk release, dome light, horn, or even parking light flash. Would like to have at least 100' range.
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much, in advance. Rob.
Answer -
Yep no trouble doing this at all.
Since it's a 3 wire negative door lock system, you
are all set. Less the a 1 hour installation.
If looking for a bit more range though, look at
the DLR4HD at www.KEYLESSCAR.com .
Beats the KE30 by about 150 feet.
I carry both, and the links are there.
Have a good day.
ALARMTEK
Follow-up:
I see you've got about the best price around on the KE30 (I don't know about the other model, as I haven't been shopping for that type), so I'll be ordering one or the other from your website. I was wondering how much of a pain the installation is going to be to get at evereything under the dash in my MR2. I DO have the shop wiring manual, so the technical part of the install should be no problem. Trying to figure out how to get the dash apart to get at the Ignition (do I NEED to use the ignition wire if I'm not using the alarm or starter cutout function?), +12v hot lead, and the key switch lock and unlock wires looks like a nightmare in the making...
Also, if I manage to find room under the dash for the unit, will it significantly affect the range of the remote, and if so, how can I optimize it? Looks like every wire I need access to goes through there, if I can manage to get it apart (don't forget that I've then also have to be able to cram all that stuff back in there! Would you recommend a different location for the receiver?
Can you tell me the basic difference between the DLR4 and the DLR4HD, and what would be the difference between installing either of them versus the KE30?
Thanks once again, Rob.
Answer -
You mount the brain of the alarm
up under the dash to the
left of the steering column in the cavity
and stretch out the antenna wire. Don't
overthink this. It's just a couple
of screws and clips to get under the dash
to access the required wires.
Have a look at www.mrinstall.com
for tips on how to install.
All of the systems out there would
interface to the MR2.
At this point it's a matter of
style and range of the remotes that should be of
interest. And yes, this needs to see the true
ignition wire so that it can lock and unlock the
doors when the key is on. Don't want to do a
halfway job here.
But really, it's pretty simple:
POWER
GROUND
IGNITION
LOCK WIRE
UNLOCK WIRE
DONE.
OPTIONS INCLUDE:
ADD PARKING LIGHTS
DO DRIVERS DOOR PRIORITY
AD A RELAY FOR STARTER KILL
ADD HORN HONK CAPABILITY
DOME LIGHT SURVALIENCE.
And that's that. Not a big
project by any means.
I'll will watch for your choice.
A.
OK, thanks yet again!
Looks like there's a connector that contains the door key lock and unlock wires located behind the passenger side kick panel. The advantage of using the passenger door key switch is that I would only need 1 pulse to unlock both doors (if you put the key in the passenger's door and turn it to the unlock position, it disarms the Anti-theft system and unlocks both doors). If you put the key in the driver's door and turn it to the unlock position, the Anti-theft system disarms, and only the driver's door unlocks. To get the passenger's door to unlock, the key in the driver's door needs to be returned to the vertical position, then turned back to the unlock position with three seconds, which, with a remote, would require 2 pulses (sort of like the GM system I had in my Chevy pickup). I realize that both the KE30 and the DLR4 both have the 2 pulse unlock feature. Are the pulse duration and spacing programable, or fixed? The disadvantage of the passenger's side is that hot +12v & ignition +12v may be a long way off (other side of the dash).
There's also a connector behind the driver's kick panel, but as I mentioned it would require the 2 pulse unlock, but it would be located right next to a fuse panel which would surely contain a hot +12v, and may even have a switched (ignition) +12v. I believe there's a grounding lug in that region as well, which would facilitate the ground connection...
How long is the antenna wire? Will it go from one side of the dash to the other? I'd really like to try to do the install without the removal of the dash, as I have absolutely no idea how it comes apart. If the antenna is run alond the bottom of all the junk under the dash, I'm sure the range would suffer, but it would be the simplest solution. In reality, if the lock/unlock would work reliably from a distance of 50', I'd be happy. Please advise.
TIA, Rob.
AnswerWhen you buy here, I will provide the proper locations polarities and colors in the 91 MR2 so
you won't have to hunt n peck.
The antenna is fixed and is only 6 in. long. when
you mount the brain box, you simply stretch out the antenna and tape it off to a wire harness up in the dash.
Really, you see to want to make this a total project
but it is pretty easy with a phillips head screw driver
and drill, some black tape, and maybe a 10mm socket wrench.
Anyway, I think this is the last of the questions at this site. It is for the assistance of customers who really need help. I think once you have bought and installed it, you'll
wonder why all the fuss and questions for a 6 wire hook up.
In any case the best overall choice here is
the DLR4HD in case you want the options
it provides. If not, KE30 will do the job too.
Have a good night, and if you need more questions
answered about keyless entry and are just shopping around, please get some help at www.installsupport.com.
That's my forum page for more involved issuses.
ALARMTEK
