Car Stereos: Two Pyle Blue Wave Plbw154s, dual voice coil, self tapping screw

Question
Hi, I'm glad I came across this site, as I have only one question. I have two Pyle 15" 1500 watt peak dual voice coil subs. I also have a 1996 chevy beretta z-26, so it made this a challenge. I took a ported dual 12" sub enclosure that just barely fit and could be moved up against the seats, and I cut the 15" holes out of the side, and wood glued the 15" cut-outs on the inside to cover and air-tighten the box where the twlve inch holes were. Look's pretty flush and the lighting equipment has a nice place now. So the port faces toward the back of the car, and the subs face upward. Basically my question is, how to get some more flex from the subs. They're powered by a Lanzar V series amp (3000) watts peak, and the rear view mirrors all shake, and outside the trunk shakes hard and flexes a little. Basically I'm looking to see if there is anything I can do to get a little more reverberation as I've seen some of the same subsz reverberate quite a bit more. Thanks in advance, and for future reference to others who read this (Two 15's in a beretta makes a rough project.).

Just in case you need to know how everything is wired...
250A amp about 10 inches from the battery
0 guage wire running from the battery, under the chassis all the way to the trunk, and up through a drilled hole which is sealed. 12 guage speaker wire from the amp to the terminals in the box, then to the subs. Might need to use some more wood glue to make sure it's completely sealed. I have the Db turned up all the way at the moment on the amp, the HZ is set at full. Subsonic is all the way down. And I have a dual XDMR7710 head unit. And pyle 6x9's and 4x6's. The power wire is secured under the chassis, and doesn't scrape ground anywhere, and the negative is being completely secured in an hour. Using the lug terminal end, and a self tapping screw.

Actually, second question now is before the amp was hooked up, the head unit would turn off when I hit power off, and when I turned the car off, but since the amp was hooked up, the lights on the head unit stay lit now, and the amp stays running. I'm pretty sure the remote wire is secured, might replace it if need be. Again thanks in advance.

Answer
Hi,

Well, first your question about the power staying on -- this would suggest to me a wire got crossed somewhere, as your deck gets its power for turn on/shut off from an accessory wire from the car.  If it's not shutting off, then that wire is hooked up wrong or is touching something it shouldn't.

That wire being wrong will also cause the amp to stay on since the deck thinks it's on, so it turns the amp on.  As soon as you fix the deck staying on issue, the amp will work too.

As for your setup, I can't give you specifics because learning the exact dimensions and locations of ports is a pretty specific science and you'd need measurements and all that.

If you just want more BOOM from the system, all I can tell you is you're going to have to play with the port.  The amount of air space you have in the system coupled with the diameter of the port and its depth and location in the box are what will change the subwoofer's output.

If you want clean hard bass but not so much boom, then close the port up entirely.

Justin