Car Stereos: 4 12s bump is coming in and out, digital multimeter, fuse holder


Question
QUESTION: ok i had 4 twelves bumping until one day the bump started cutting in and out.. i have a 2008 impala.. my wiring is all upgraded to a 2 gauge wire kit, and everything is hooked to the stock head unit... i had it bumping for months then one day cut out.. i figured i needed another battery for it, but wen only hooking it up with one sub, it continued, the amp seems fine, so does the subs, im thinking its not holding enough power to produce the ridiculous bump it was producing before.. let me know if u need more info

ANSWER: Hi Nicolas,

With a problem like this, I'd probably start by measuring the voltage at the amplifier's power terminals when it's cutting out.  Use a digital multimeter to see how low the voltage is when the sound stops.  If it's falling below about 11 volts, then repeat the test at the battery terminals. (Have your engine running during the testing).

If you're getting falling voltage at the amplifier, but it's not dropping at the battery terminals, then there's a voltage drop occurring somewhere on the amplifier's power or ground wiring.  This can be caused by a loose connection at the battery terminal, loose or corroded connections at the fuse holder, a defective fuse, poor connections at the amplifier terminals, or a poor amplifier ground connection.  You can track down the problem by measuring the voltage at various points on the power line.

On the other hand, if you're seeing a voltage drop at the battery as well as the amplifier, then there may be a problem with your alternator, battery, or charging system wiring.

It's also possible that the voltage isn't dropping significantly at all, and your problem is caused by something else.  Watch the amp's power light: is the amp shutting off entirely?  Is a "protect" light coming on?

If it's shutting down, but you're not seeing a significant voltage drop at the power terminals, then it's likely that there's a defect in the amplifier.  On the other hand, if you're getting a "protect" light, then you might have a problem with a sub.  Try disconnecting the subwoofer entirely; see if the protect light comes on when there's nothing connected.  If it does, then there's definitely a problem with the amplifier.  If it doesn't, then connect a different sub and see if will work with that one.  

Hope this helps!

Brian

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: ok i did the volt meter on the subs.. i wired it up so the voice coils that gave me readings are hooked up.. still problems.. today i am going to change all the fuses and move my remote wire do an auxiliary port... the amp doesnt dim or lights dont shut offf... it literally seems like its out of tune or not enough power.. i thought the stock head unit could have been blown because every time the volume is low it bumps, but when i increase volume the bump drops..

Answer
Nicolas,

I may have misunderstood your original question.  Is your amp staying on, but just reducing the bass output at higher volume levels?

I know that there are some factory audio systems that will automatically reduce the bass output when you turn up the volume.  This is meant to protect the speakers, but if you're using a line output converter with the factory system, the bass reduction will be passed along to the after-market equipment.  There are products available to restore the lost bass output; MTX's Re-Q device is an example.  However, this wouldn't explain why the system was working well for you before, but not any more.

If the amplifier's keeping its power light on, though, I don't think it's going to be related to the remote wire connection.  The most likely explanation would be a problem with the factory radio's output, or with the line output converter.

Good luck!

Brian