QuestionQUESTION: How do i install a cd player and a amp along with door speakers into a 2004 chevy silverado.
ANSWER: Hi William,
It's a bit of a broad question, but I have some extra time on my hands today, so I'll try to give you step-by-step instructions. This might be a fairly long answer.
First, purchase the parts you need. I generally list Metra installation parts, because they're usually the easiest to find, and cover the widest range of vehicles. You can substitute parts from other manufacturers, such as Scosche or American International, if you like; I'll give you the Metra part numbers here.
The head unit installation will require:
-99-2003 Mounting kit
-40-GM10 Antenna adapter
-70-2003 Wire harness OR one of the following adapter modules.
The factory head unit in your Silverado generates the vehicle warning chimes. It's also controlled by the vehicle's data bus system, instead of a key-switched power wire. When you remove the factory radio, you'll lose the warning chimes, and you'll have to find a key-switched power source for the new head unit's accessory power input, unless you use one of these adapter modules:
-If your truck is equipped with a Bose audio system, and you plan to continue using the Bose amplifier, you'll need a GMOS-04 adapter.
-If your truck is not equipped with a Bose audio system (or you're bypassing the factory amp) but is equipped with Onstar, then you'll need a GMOS-01 adapter.
-If your truck is not equipped with a Bose audio system or with Onstar, or if you don't plan to use the Onstar system, then you can either use a GMOS-01 adapter or a GMRC-01 adapter.
The speaker installation doesn't require any additional parts, but there are some adapter parts that will make it easier:
--72-4568 Speaker harness will allow you to easily connect the new speakers to the factory speaker plugs. If you're running new speaker wire from the amplifier to the speakers, this adapter isn't needed; if you're using the amp for subs, and connecting the speakers to the factory wiring, then this adapter is recommended.
--82-3002 Speaker brackets will make it easier to mount the new speakers. Without them, you'll have to use self-tapping screws to mount the new speaker directly to door metal, because the factory screw holes won't be in the right positions for the new speakers. (This is how I normally do it). With the bracket, you should be able to mount the speakers without making new holes.
--I'd also suggest a Dynamat speaker install kit (Dynamat 10415). This helps to seal up the gaps in the factory door metal around the new speaker, and damp the sheet metal so it doesn't vibrate as the speaker cone is moving. The result can be improved sound quality.
The amplifier installation will require:
--An amp install kit, including power and ground wire, fuse and fuse holder, RCA cables, remote turn-on wire, and speaker wire.
--Fork terminals for the speaker and power wire, if they're not included in the amplifier install kit, and if the amplifier terminals require them.
--Metra BT305 battery post adapter (required for connecting power wire to the side-terminal batteries used in GM vehicles).
Before you begin your installation, roll down all your windows, then disconnect the vehicle's negative battery terminal. Leave it disconnected until the installation is complete.
Start by removing the factory radio. Set the vehicle's parking brake; put in the key and turn it to the "on" position, then press the brake and move the gear shift lever to the lowest position so it's out of the way. Pull off the main dash panel that surrounds the radio and instrument cluster. It's just held on with clips. After the panel is removed, take out the three 7mm screws that hold the radio in place. Pull out the radio, unplug the factory radio plug(s) and antenna plug from the back, and remove the radio.
Next, at your workbench, attach the power and ground wire, RCA cables, remote wire and speaker wire to the amplifier terminals. Tape the RCA cables together with the remote wire so they can be easily routed along the same path.
Take the amp and wiring to the truck, and mount the amp in your chosen location. If you have an extended cab or 4-door truck, you can probably fit it under a rear seat. If you have a 2-door standard cab truck, I like to fasten a piece of 1/2" MDF or plywood to the rear wall using adhesive or Liquid Nails. Then mount the amp to the plywood, through the carpeting.
Remove the sill panels and kick panels on both sides. They just pull off (use caution to avoid cracking them). Route the RCA and remote wires under the carpet on the passenger side, up the passenger side kick panel, behind the glove box, and over to the radio opening. Run the main power wire under the carpet on the driver's side, up to the kick panel area. If your amp is going to be running the door speakers, run the speaker wires to the kick panels on each side; if it's for a sub, run your speaker wire to the subwoofer box location and connect it to the sub.
Run your ground wire to a good grounding point (clean body metal). Scrape away the paint at the grounding location, attach a ring terminal to the ground wire, and fasten it securely to the metal with a screw and star washer (or, if you have access to the other side, a nut and bolt). Cover the ground location with dielectric grease to help prevent corrosion.
At your workbench, splice the new head unit's wire plug to the adapter harness or adapter module wiring. (If you're not using a data bus adapter module, connect a 2' extension wire to the head unit's red accessory power wire). Splice the wires using solder and shrink tubing (or high-quality electrical tape), solderless butt connectors, or crimp caps. Never use wire nuts, or twist and tape without soldering; and never use cheap electrical tape--it will eventually turn brittle and fall off, resulting in short circuits. Install the CD player into the mounting kit, following the instructions included with the kit and CD player. Connect the 40-GM10 antenna adapter to the antenna plug on the CD player.
Take the completed wire harness/adapter module to the radio opening, and connect it to the factory radio plug. If you're not using an adapter module, route your long accessory power wire to the area under the steering column. Splice it into the thick brown wire in the vehicle's key switch harness. If you do this, you must install a fuse and fuse holder on the new wire, within a few inches of the brown wire. Use a 3 amp or 5 amp fuse in the fuse holder. If you're using an adapter module, it will include an accessory power output for the new player, so you won't need to splice wiring under the steering column.
Take your mounting kit/CD player assembly to the radio opening. Plug the RCA cables into the outputs on the back of the CD player, and connect the remote wire to the blue/white remote output at the CD player. (If you don't have a blue/white output, look for a blue wire instead). Plug the wire harness into the back of the CD player, then mount the assembly in place using the three screws that were removed earlier. Be careful not to pinch any wires when pushing the CD player into position.
Go back to the driver's side kick panel area. Carefully route the amplifier power cable around the parking brake assembly, up to the firewall. You'll need to get this wire through the firewall to the battery. My preferred method is to drill a hole through the clutch plate area (if the truck has an automatic transmission). Looking at the firewall from the inside, you should see a circular cutout on the firewall liner. It's high up above the electrical box. Remove the cutout, and you can drill a hole through this area for the power wire. (You can unclip the electrical box and move it out of the way for more room, but you may still need a right-angle drill). Start by making a hole in the firewall with a short self-tapping screw; then locate the hole on the engine side so that you're certain you're not running into anything on that side. If it's clear, make a larger hole. The best tool for this is a Uni-bit or step bit. Be sure to install a snap bushing or grommet (this is often included with the amp installation kit) before running the power wire through the hole; otherwise the wire may be worn through by the sharp metal edge.
If you don't want to drill a hole, you may be able to run the wire through the thick rubber grommet located behind the electrical box. A large factory wire bundle runs through this grommet. You can puncture the grommet for your power wire, but be careful not to damage any factory wiring. Some people push the grommet out entirely, and run the power wire around it; this is not recommended, because it will allow water to get into your truck.
Run the power wire to the battery location. Secure the wire with cable ties so that it can't get caught up in any engine components. Unscrew the positive battery terminal, and remove the battery post from the factory ring terminal. Install the after-market battery post into the terminal, and screw it back into the battery. Fasten your amp power wire, with the fuse and fuse holder, into the tap at the end of the new battery post.
To remove the front door panel: pop off the triangular panel at the top, and the small panel around the door release handle. Pop up the panel with the power window and lock switches, unplug it, and remove it. There will be a 7mm screw inside this opening that needs to come out. Another 7mm screw is located under the door pull handle. You'll also need to pry out the door lock indicator piece. Check the lower perimeter of the door panel for more screws. Then, pull straight up on the door panel. You're not pulling the panel away from the door at first; you're pulling it upwards to release it, then you can remove it from the door. Before it can come away completely, you'll need to disconnect the light on the lower part of the door panel. If there's a factory tweeter, it may also need to be unplugged before the panel can be completely removed.
Remove the factory speaker. If you're connecting the new speaker to the factory wiring, plug in your speaker adapter, then mount the new speaker to the door. If you're using your amp to run the speakers, then route the new speaker wire into the door through the door wire conduit. A long cable tie is useful for pulling wire through conduits like this. Run your new wire to the speaker opening, and connect it to your speaker, then mount the speaker in place. Repeat this process for the opposite door speaker.
At this point, your installation wiring is complete. You can now re-connect the negative battery terminal, and test the equipment for proper operation. If everything's working as expected, re-install the door panels, sill panels, and dash bezel panel.
Let me know if you have any more specific questions about the installation or parts required.
Hope this helps!
Brian
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Where can i purchase the Metra installation parts. Thanks
AnswerWith the exception of the speaker brackets, the parts for your truck should be available at any shop that sells and installs car audio equipment. The same parts are used for most 2001+ GM vehicles, so they're usually kept in stock by retailers. The speaker brackets are less commonly used, but can be found at various online vendors. (In fact, you can find all the parts online, and will probably pay less if you purchase them that way). Try www.crutchfield.com or www.sonicelectronixs.com.
Brian
