BMW Repair: 89 525i speedometer/thermometer/rough cold start, light fuse, fuse box

Question
I LOOSENED THE STAR SCREWS ON THE FUSE BOX UNDER HOOD WAS GOING TO ATTEMPT TO REPLACE MY LEFT LOW BEAM LIGHT FUSE HOLDER IN FUSE BOX.

I COULDN'T GET THE FUSE BOX TO LIFT UP AFTER LOOSENING SCREWS SO I TIGHTENED THEM BACK DOWN AND WHEN I DROVE AGAIN MY SPEEDOMETER WASN'T WORKING.

EVERYTHING ELSE IS WORKING FINE----HOW DO I RESET OR GET MY SPEEDOMETER TO WORK AGAIN?

Question 2--I can sometimes smell anti-freeze thru my heater vent, A friend of mine adjusted the plastic screw on top of the radiator not far from the cap.

COULD THAT BE THE REASON I'M SOMETIMES SMELLING ANTI-FREEZE THRU HEAT VENTS?

THE CAR IS NOT RUNNING HOT,AND NOT SHOWING ENGINE LIGHT.

Question 3--My car is starting rough (when cold)sometimes won't start on the first try, if i press on the gas pedal and rev engine it's almost like its not getting a steady flow of gas.

I recently purchased the car and my friend claimed he knew about bmw's so i let him look the car over and adjust what needed to be adjusted.

i noticed that he adjusted a small screw right under the end of the accelerator cable under hood, he said he was adjusting the idle.

DOES THAT SCREW ADJUST THE FUEL MIXTURE? OR IT ADJUST THE IDLE SPEED AS HE SAID?

I REPLACED MY AIR FILTER AND REPLACED SPARK PLUGS (I did notice that my no. 2 plug wire DID NOT catch threads on the top of the spark plug (when removing and replacing) like all the other plug wires.

Almost like it's not hugging the tip when pushed all the way down.

Could that be the reason it's cold starting rough/idling?

IT STARTS AND RUNS FINE AFTER COMPLETELY WARM BUT STILL HAS A SMALL HESITATION WHEN SITTING AT IDLE.

PLEASE GIVE ME SOME IDEAS OF WHAT MAY BE THE CAUSE THESE PROBLEMS.

                          THANKS-  KEITH

Answer
Hi Keith,
Re- fuse box and speedometer:
      a) open up the fuse box cover again and look up the
         fuse or fuses concerned with the instrument
         cluster,
         replace blown fuses (this will hopefully make your
         speedometer work again)
      b) if you have removed the 7 torx screws holding the
         main fuse box carrier, I see no reason why you can
         not pull it up (so long as you peep below and look
         at whatever could impede its movement (cables
         primarily)
Re-  coolant smell:
      a) you could have a leaking heater coil inside the
         evaporator (replacement is not for the faint of
         heart)
      b) you could have a leaking coolant hose at the
         left firewall area where the heater pump is
         located, or where the hose connects to the heater
         coil of the evaporator
      c) the screw beside the radiator/expansion tank cap
         is a bleeder screw, you open this to eliminate
         air pockets inside the cooling system while adding
         coolant
Re-  rough idling/idle adjustment:
      a) I do not recall that the idle air valve can be
         adjusted in this car (it is the T-shaped aluminum
         tube with an electrical connector and 2 hoses
         connected to it). most probably he was adjusting
         the lever concerned with the throttle valve
         opening
      b) the idle air valve is usually one of the first
         that you should suspect if you have a rough idle
         and you have to pump the pedal to start the car.
         of course, this is after you have made sure that
         the vacuum hoses connected to the intake manifold
         and idle air valve are all OK.
      c) congratulations for replacing your spark plug and
         air filter. you could replace your plug wires as
         a set (aproximately $120.00) or just buy a suit-
         table replacement for the one wire that is bad
         by asking the help of your neighborhood auto parts
         store (aftermarket non-original though).
I hope I have covered all of the points that you raised.
Tino