BMW Repair: e46 P1580 fault, brake light switch, odd intervals


Question
Thanks. Hopefully the dealer won't rake me over the coals for an hour or so of labor. One more thing, then I should be set. Both my "tail light out" indicators are lit in the sah message center, but all the lights are good. (This also happened after I replaced the CCV - related?) I've been told this is due to the brake light switch going bad. Does this sound to be true?

Thanks again for all your help.

Ryan
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Followup To

Question -
Well, I thought I had it. I'm pretty sure the throttle body checks out. (I've checked the pin-outs and they all seem good, resistance changes 1000-2000 ohms as I vary throttle position on both pots.) I have another MDK coming anyway. I also have a Peake R5 on the way too. (I think the AutoZone guy is sick of me.)

I did find a problem that I caused when I first re-assembled. The spring that balances the throttle position slipped off the arm and rested against the body, instead of in the notch on the arm. I put it back in the correct place, and reinstalled the MDK. It ran fine for a day, but after a little "spirited" driving, the EML and DSC lights came on and now are on full time (car in safe mode).

I read something about the "adaptation values" for the MDK. Is there a procedure I should have followed when I put the car back together?


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Followup To

Question -
Evan,
I'm still working out the bugs in my 328 (2000 e46 sedan, 5 sp, 144k miles). I replaced the crankcase vent valve. (My God, was that a pain in the arse.) Now, I apparantly have a throttle body problem. I now have the P1580 fault, which seems to come on at odd intervals. I get the EML, DSC, and engine lights and the car drops into "safe mode" where it won't go over about 50 mph. (Great fun on I-85 in 80 mph traffic...) Anyway, I've tried cleaning and reinstalling but it still happens. If I shut the car down, wait about 10 sec, and re-start it will run normal again (until it faults again). antying to check to be sure this is the problem?  There's no way that is an inexpensive part...

Thanks,
Ryan

Answer -
Ryan congradulations on the CCV valve. That is not my favorite job. All the plastic hoses are so brittle by the time the valve goes bad. Was that throttle boot hose cracked at the idle valve bend? Did you clean out the idle valve? Anyway you need to replace the throttle body (MDK) and clear faults. You're right it's not cheap.
-Evan

Answer -
Ryan, replace the valve. Turn off the key for 30 seconds. Turn on the key and Clear DME adaptation values and fault memory (Dealer diagnostic machine only). Press accelerator to the floor four times. This is per Service Bulletin 12 07 99 on MDK replacement and repair instructions. The car may run a little weird until the DME figures out new throttle adaptations.
-Evan

Answer
Ryan, expect to pay an hour when taking your car into the dealer service bay whether they do anything or not. Brake light switch failure is possible cause of your symptoms. The diagnostic report will tell you if there is a fault stored in the Lamp module. Do the lights actually work when the brake pedal is depressed?