Questionhttp://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14539
this one i'm using for my subs
and i'm using a 400 watt 4 channel amp...100X4...
but its 50X4 RMS....
My distributor block for the power has two fuses on it.... but its at 30 amps each....do i buy new fuses.... if so, what should i use?
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Followup To
Question -
I recently got two amplifiers...one that powers my 4 speakers and one that powers my two subs...which i will be running at 2 ohms by connecting them in parallel.......i just bought a distributor block for the power...i'm running a 4 gauge into the distributor and getting two 8 gauge cables out.... the 4 gauge cable is really long, and i'm thinking of cutting two pieces of that and using it as a grounds for the two amps.... is that possible? if so... would it ruin anything if i'm using a greater ground than a power cable..... and is it recommended to get a distributor for the ground or can i just connect them both together at the ground........ I have one more question.....how do i distribute the remote turn on cable to the amps.....is there a distributor for that or anything.....thank you very much.....
Answer -
you want that 4 gauge power wire to be as short as possible. every foot that's extra looses power by the time you get to the other end.
you can use the 4 gauge as grounds, it wont hurt anything. typically you want to use the same gauge for pos and neg. it shouldnt make a difference though in this case. larger is ok but smaller isnt. I wouldn't use 12 guage for your ground and 8 for your pos or something like that. I'm assuming both of your amps have a maximum current draw of 60 AMPs? this is all you should put on an 8 guage wire. If they are rated for more you should consider changing this setup. Tell me what the make and models of each amp are or the wattages and or fuses on the amps if you want help with this.
You dont need a distrib for the grounds, best way to ground is to drill a hole in the frame (look under the car and make sure you aren't going to hit any break or fuel lines or go near the gas tank or something.) After you drill the hole take sand paper and remove all the paint about 1 inch diameter around the hole ON BOTH the inside of the vehicle and the outside. you need to make it shine or the paint or corrosion will get in the way of a good solid ground. Then just put a crimp ring terminal on the wire and very tightly bolt it through the hole you made in the frame. I usually spray over everything on both sides with spraypaint so that the metal doesnt rust or corrode. So in your case you can drill 2 holes or you can drill one and stack the 2 ring terminals on top of eachother. as for the remote turn on lead, just cut and stip the wire and use 2 more peices of the same type wire to go to each amp. form a Y with them and put a wirenut on where they all meet. (orange ones work well for this) Or run the wire to one amp and jumper over to the other amp with a piece of the same wire.
If you are running your subs in parallel creating a 2 ohm load make sure your amp is a mono amp that supports 2 ohms or a stereo (2 channel amp that you're bridging) that supports 1 ohm on each channel (not too common).
Good luck!
Answeryou want to see if there are fuses in the amps. some amps will have little blade style fuses in them. if so add them up on the amp if there's more than 1 (2x25s is 50, 3x30s is 90 etc) You want the fuses in your distrib block to be equal to or more than these fuses. If the amps have no fuses you can look in the manual or do the following equation:
(W divided by V) divided by E = A
W is Max RMS output power in watts
V is the voltage your car supplies (usually about 13)
E is the efficiency typically you can use .5 for class A/B and use .85 for class D
A is the amps of fuse to get. (round up)
So your bass amp is as follows:
(360 divided by 13) equals 28
28 divided by .85 equals 33 AMPS
So if you can find a 35 amp fuse that may be better but the 30 is extreamly close and should be good.
